Hello , My name is Wade. I am not new to British bikes by any means. But I am new to one of this vintage. Twice I was loaned one to ride , Once from England to Germany with my wife on pillion ( a trooper) and once around England again with the wife but the weather was better that time surprisingly. So I am familiar with the wonderful experience of riding one... Add a reverence for all things WW2 and there was no way I could turn this down ...
Picked this up last week ... Missing some expensive stuff like the speedo set up and rear seat set up.... Will need a lot of nuts and bolt and things like that .
Let me know what else you see missing or wrong... And of course if you have any spares you wouldnt mind selling for the cause....
The best thing is to start here on the forum with the frame and engine number...That will determine the year of manufacture and contract that the bike was built under...From there a specification can be determined and you can then deduce what you have and haven't got...
One clear photo of each side of the bike will serve for an initial assessment of its condition etc...Ian
Sorry for the duplicate photos in there ... Ill do better the next time.... Im sure there are little things missing that I dont know about... I downloaded a parts book but its not as detailed as the A65 ones... Or as easy to read... Might even be the wrong year ....
The id numbers are in my photos. Not sure if this is a match number bike or not... I was told by PO that it was not but it seems that the numbers are from the same year so maybe it is.
The Contract number seems to be C 5121777 but thats all I know... I wonder where it was shipped to ? Was it in the thick of things or was is shipped to Canada or some where else initially ...
The following parts are missing or not original to a WW2 M20:
- headlight glass, should be flat of the Difusa type
- speedo drive
- speedo
- speedo mounting bracket
- speedo cable
- your fork needs arepaire in order to fit a speedo bracket
- your top fork links are installed the wrong way around, the left one is fitted on the right and right one fitted to the left
- ammeter is post war
- civilian lucas headlight switch is fitted
- bakelite damper knob
- front bolts to fasten the fueltank
- horn
- horn push button
- dynamo end cover (is a post war one)
- battery carrier is post war
- fuel line
- rear standard, the one you have looks like a home made one
- various nuts and bolts
I am sure that some other experts will see more things that are missing. I am more in to early WM20's.
I notice it has a Triumph clutch fitted (Not a bad thing)
And a couple of items for the critique list.
regulator looks like a cheap Asian copy of a post war MCR2 (should be the shorter MCR1)
The dynamo itself might be a post war 60 Watt item? (Difficult to tell)
Brake and clutch levers are post war and the adv/ret lever is missing. (Looks like the cable is connected to the choke lever).
I notice it has a Triumph clutch fitted (Not a bad thing)
And a couple of items for the critique list.
regulator looks like a cheap Asian copy of a post war MCR2 (should be the shorter MCR1)
The dynamo itself might be a post war 60 Watt item? (Difficult to tell)
Brake and clutch levers are post war and the adv/ret lever is missing. (Looks like the cable is connected to the choke lever).
Ron
Thanks Ron .... Thats what I needed . Will the Dynamo be an issue ? I will restore to original as much as possible but I may not worry about that right away if it works.... If I buy the things I have sourced already then , I will have spent more on a non running bike then if I had bought a restored one.... It is what it is but goal (plan ) will need to be to make it mechanically sound and the appearance of a WW2 machine at 20 ft away ... :o
That said . the more I learn the more I will want to correct the wrongs as finances allow.
Thank you very very much for taking the time to look over my photos and offer advice !!!
There's no issue with the dynamo as long as it's working. More of an issue will be the regulator (If it's from India)....They are crap and only usually work for a short time.
Get it running and maintained and painted in service colour and sort out anything that displeases you over time. Ron
The carburetter has a Triumph choke set up with the metal bar and it should have two copper pipes from each tap going into one pipe to the carburetter. Hard to tell from a photo but looks like the carburetter bowl may be on a 3 degree or 7 degree angle (Triumph). The BSA float bowl should be vertical with no angle. On the top of the carburetter on the right flange where it bolts on should be 276C/1B I suspect this one may be a 276FF/1AT or similar? At least the bike is pretty complete so that's a great start.
The shooting stick field stand and retaining clip are also missing but as said above plenty to restore. Get the bike running I am sure the missing parts will turn up during the process.
The rear and field stand are there in the pictures, with some extra parts.
Contract number is S1048, and the census number on the tank is indeed C5121777. I don't have more info, ans the bike id not in the postwar Key Cards, that only means it was sold by the army before 1949 or so.
Thanks Everyone !!! Yeah I think the only thing I am missing for the field stand is a nut at the mount and the retaining part for when its in the up position... Need to find out what that looks like and start searching.... Ill look at the carb to see what number that is... If I have the Triumph one will it still run properly ? Would it also be from a War bike?
The carburetter will be fine if the bowl is not on an angle. Stand back from the bike and look and see that the bowl is vertical. If it is not vertical you will have small problems on going around bends as it will starve slightly on one type of bend and be a bit rich on the opposite bends. Had a guy ride a bike for 6 or so years with the wrong angled bowl and wondered why it hesitated on bends but went great on straight roads.
Took some more detailed photos to see what else I need and to be sure I understand things
I need a rear seat but this bracket looks different then what I see on other WM20s ... Are there multiple versions ? Are my brackets wrong?
Here is my tool box .... The paint of my tool box and headlight look shinier and different then the rest of the bike... Wonder if they are repops or just replaced?
And should this screw knob just come off when its undone or should there be a retainer of some kind?
Looks like I will need a wiring harness. No wiring going to the headlight or to the rear light at all.... Is there a good source or should I just make my own?
Along with the seat question above the rear of the bike offers a few mysteries ....
1) This is the way I picked up the bike ... The nuts are barely on ... Wonder how many fell off in transport.... Maybe they are mismatched thread ... Will investigate further as I delve into this project.
2) The loose hex spacers on the panniers are apparently correct but again just hanging there.... Cant believe they didnt fall off... I have two . how many should be there?
3) My pannier on one side has rusted away at the top . I guess that will be a welding repair.
4) I suppose my tail light is a repop since the wiring looks new.
5) And what bodge has been done to my rear mudguard? I have another that came with the bike but not an extra "wing " or what ever the part is called that removes for wheel removal. Does that piece look butchered?
6) Lastly What is the nipple looking thing under the passenger footpeg?
Here is my Carb... It is neither one of the numbers mentioned above ... Anyone know what it is for... I should probably look for the right one ...
Ive order Canvas grips . Will they fit this throttle? The pictures of original ones looks the same without the chrome... Are they the same otherwise though?
Your carb is a 276, so providing the body is not too worn? can easily be reconfigured by ordering the correct new parts from Amal/ Surrey Cycles or Hitchcocks. The top is wrong as the choke/air is operated by cable at the handlebar. The (long) bottom nut is wrong and the float bowl is angled and should be straight. You can of course buy a complete new carb from one of the three firms mentioned (I much prefer the service from Hitchcocks).
Carb spec is 276C/1B
Your twistgrip looks like a modern Doherty (which I wouldn't want to use) and should be a period Amal. Ron
Fresh in from the UK... Some NOS and some not so NOS... Rebuilt speedo and drive.
Of course the levers werent what I was expecting... Two clutch levers ... Now I have three since one came on the handle bars too.... The parts from the UK arrived in a week but the handle bars from WI took 2 months via the post office.... But I am happy with everything and the UK guy said he will find me a brake lever
Nice seat cover for a seat that I dont have yet
Got an extra tool roll for my B33 project as well .
Looks like you've been doing some shopping with Stuart.
Just so you know, the wartime clutch and brake levers are the same part number, so one is always upside down. Probably the same with the post war levers, but I don't have parts books for those.
Oh and pictures of groups of parts will save a logjam:confused: Ron
Looks like you've been doing some shopping with Stuart.
Just so you know, the wartime clutch and brake levers are the same part number, so one is always upside down. Probably the same with the post war levers, but I don't have parts books for those.
Oh and pictures of groups of parts will save a logjam:confused: Ron
Oh thats interesting !! I had planned on using the one upside down till I got the right one but maybe it is the right one... The ones I got are supposed to be post war but what the difference between war and post war ?
I will do fewer photos next time... Sorry I didnt edit them down... Hurrying before the wife kicks me off of the computer ..
Does my new headlight look right... Did they make repops of these or could this one be original?
Some quite good repro WD headlamps are coming from India and usually in that strange green colour. The inside bulb holder and reflector will give it away.
The standardized Amal levers are solid, not the pressed steel type you have. Here are what they look like. Ron
Ok that carb stamped 276FG/1AT has a 7degree bowl as I suspected and was originally fitted to Triumph 1951-53 Thunderbird. I would buy a new 276C/1B as Ron suggested as the internal parts are probably all wrong such as needle jet, main jet and slide. As already pointed out bottom nut and choke are wrong. Bowl if stamped 1AT on the arm connecting to the carb body is also wrong.
The correct pillion saddle would be an "Acumen" Long or short version. You would be best to speak to Jan about these on wd.register@gmail.com
Which means the NOS cover you bought is wrong. Below is one of the long versions. The nipple that you asked about by the foot rest is for the front loop of the rear stand spring. Ron
PS I think you might do better to start a fresh thread with individual questions and pictures to save trolling through this thread which might put others off. Ron