my front wheel is turned to the right when the handlebars are straight ahead, is there a way loosen and align/tighten them to correct this before removing them in order to find out whats bent?
How is this done when the left leg is splayed out for the speedo drive

Kevin

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

Easiest thing first! Quite often it's the handlebar that is bent! I would first start by running a long straight edge through the bike touching all four points on the tyres. I have a long ally channel and usually hold it lightly in place on the front tyre with G clamps.

With the rear wheel directly in line with the front wheel, you might see what is happening. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

thanks Ron ill start there but there is definitely something tweaked as it doesnt track very well when just pushing it, so much that i wouldnt even hop on and try to ride around the parking lot, i think the left side is pulled forward, but ill start as you suggested and get a metal channel

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

If the forks need checking after they're removed? It's easy to check them for sideways out of align. I can advice how I've done it when/if required. But if it's for and aft? then a different approach of clamping/jigging will need to be adopted.

I'd definitely eliminate the handlebar first though. Even replace it with a straight piece of 7/8" tube to prove a point. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Using the channel method on the right side, it touches the rear tyre on both places while the front is 2 inches over to the left
i removed the front wheel and mudguard and you can see it with your eye, so i need to take them off now to check exactly how many parts are bent, i think at least 3 of the downtubes

what is the correct safe way to remove/replace the spring

thanks for the help Ron

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

The forks on these are quite easy. Take the top links out first, which will release the tension, you should then be able to swing the forks back to take the top of the spring out from the top yoke. Then the bottom links. Assembly is a reversal. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I found this info of much use:





Good luck! BR Michiel

Thanks Michiel. Some good tips there!

Jigging to inspect what is out of align is one thing. The bigger problem is straighten the tubes when two are joined together. :thinking_face:

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes, can be very tricky, but a with large vice, a small press, common sense and patience it can be done :+1:





'War Department BSA M20 girders are always bent" :relaxed:

When I rebuild a bike I always do a 'dry" rebuild, with frame, fork, an empty crankcase and wheels without tyres to check the geometry like the drawings above.

And also with a gearbox to check the rearchain alignment.

It shows very quickly when there is something wrong.

Better do this before painting as there is no fun ruining the paintjob afterwards.

BTW, Kevin, better also check your rearstand, it is much too far over the vertical which will give unfair forces on the pivots...

great info, thanks guys ill get to it this weekend,
good eye Michael, now that you mentioned it i can see that the stand is not right ill look into that too

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

Hi Kevin Great restoration. Job well done Can you tell me where you got your seat cover? Nicest one I have ever seen. Thank you Charlie

email (option): millcrocfarm@gmail.com

charlie it was on the bike when i got it, records show the bike was demobbed to Singapore, i got the bike from a widow who said her husband got it from the far East but thats all she knew, it had been civilianised and the top end was loosely assembled when i got it

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

Thank you Kevin best looking one I have seen Charlie

email (option): millcrocfarm@gmail.com

So i got the forks all apart and the main part is bent over to the left, twisted a bit and 3 tubes are bent slightly, the pin inside the spring is bent hard over confirming the hit on the right, also 2 of the side pieces are bent and the main shaft # 46 and 47 is bent so i will attempt to find someone to repair them
Ron can you e-mail me the dimensions you have, i tried printing what was on here but it doesnt come out very clear
thanks so much
Kevin

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca

Kevin #46 is the steering stem and should be possible to straighten with some heat, patience and a set square. (#47 are the grease nipples)

I'll send you the drawing with the dimensions that I've deciphered, which is for the longer later forks. The earlier forks are 1/2" shorter in the distance between wheel spindle and fork damper spindle. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

thanks Ron i got it, i think mine are the longer ones going by the center mudguard mount

email (option): taybrig@shaw.ca