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Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

My bike cold starts perfectly with one kick. Fully retarded, full choke, open the fuel tap, briefly tickle the float, the first kick starts it every time. But if I go for a short or long ride, stop, turn off the tap, park it for 15-20 mins and return I'm clearly doing something wrong getting it going again (I suspect I'm flooding it). What's your technique?

email (option): moatjon [ at ] aol.com

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

I'm afraid it could be the ignition.
Does the carburettor has a thick gasket ? Preventing it from getting hot ?

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

I hate to be a prophet of doom but dodgy magnetos act like that.

email (option): johnbrogdale@yahoo.co.uk

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

You need to check the spark when the bike is cold and at full working temperature...When cold you will probably have a nice blue spark at the plug...If the mag's in trouble, when it's hot the spark will be weaker and tend to be white rather than blue...Or possibly, it won't be there at all.

When it goes cold the spark will return...Also, try another plug, you never know it might be faulty...Gap it to .018" and make sure you have the right plug grade...

Other than that don't use any choke or tickle the carb when the bike is hot...Just start it on full advance...If it kicks back retard the ignition SLIGHTLY...Only enough to stop it kicking back...Also, don't kick it and twist the throttle at the same time...BSAs seem to like to start on a closed throttle...

So, kick it over and when it fires 'catch' it by opening the throttle gently as it fires...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

I get a nice, strong blue spark cold but I've not checked it after a ride. I'll do that. Plug is properly gapped and I have a normal paper carb gasket. Though I *might* have a bad habit of always tickling the carb before starting warm or cold. My A10 Ariel and BSA Lightning seemed ok with that but those are twins. Thanks so much for the feedback. Here's hoping it's me being stupid and not the mag.

email (option): moatjon [ at ] aol.com

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

I had the same problem.
Turned out to be the fuel deposition on the spark plug when I killed the engine.
The solution was to starve the engine off rather than use the valve lifter.
Crap fuel & crap spark plugs
If I could only get my hands on good old pool petrol.

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

Hmmm, now that's interesting. I use the valve lifter to kill it as well. Thanks for the suggestion Trevor.

email (option): moatjon [ at ] aol.com

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

I always use the valve lifter to stop the engine in all my bikes! Never done it any other way.......Unless I accidentally stall it:persevere: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

Another twin rider...I must admit that I start my 16H on choke, even when warm. I do it because it seems to conteract my bad habit of always giving a big handful as I kick through...I know that I'm doing it, but after forty years, I don't seem to be unable to unlearn it.

Sidevalves don't seem to produce enough inlet depression with the throttle open to draw any fuel up.

I do run dry before garaging but certainly not on the road.

Re: Advice requested- starting a warm WM20

My bike with its 600 M21 engine currently likes a bit of choke & no throttle to start from warm. Ignition backed off a bit too.

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