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Headlamp

Hi all,
Can anybody tell me which is the correct size headlamp for a 1944 wm20?
As some of you know, my bike is a nut and bolt rebuild, from boxes of parts. Amongst them is a brand new repro 8” headlamp.

I wasn’t sure if this is the correct size, or if it actually matters?

Thanks

Steve

email (option): Sglover1104@gmail.com

Re: Headlamp

8" headlamps were not fitted to M20's from early in the war. It should be a standard DU42 6". The standard headlamp would have been fitted with a WD four position switch OFF-T-L-H and a Lucas CZ27 ammeter* (*which nowadays can cost 4-5 times what the whole bike cost in 1944) Ron
M20-187

M20-505

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Headlamp

Once again thank you Ron

email (option): Sglover1104@gmail.com

Re: Headlamp

When were the headlamp changes made for the 'test' switch and no ammeter?...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Headlamp

Certainly after these bikes, which are from well into contract S5209 which were being delivered up to July 45 I believe. I think Steve's is from Nov 44?. There was one major contract after these. I don't know when the under saddle switch was introduced and although I thought about mentioning it, I decided it might muddy the waters for a bloke rebuilding his first M20 from boxes of parts! Ron

VokesBSA

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Headlamp

Hello Steve,

In case you want to sell the replica 8" headlight, i might be interested for my BSA.

regards,

Niek

email (option): niek.baecke@telenet.be

Re: Headlamp

Hi
Yes mine is November’44, I do have a toggle type plastic/Bakelite switch, that appears to have a bar mount type bracket. I wasn’t sure where it was to go. Possibly an under seat headlamp switch??
Not gotten as far as electrics yet so wasn’t giving it much thought.

I am planning on selling my 8” lamp, it’s brand new. I have a few parts popping up each day, that I know are surplus.

email (option): Sglover1104@gmail.com

Re: Headlamp

Steve your Bakelite switch sounds like it might be a dip switch?

But to brief you on the other switch. There was an economy measure near the end of the war, which involved fitting the special switch with test mode under the saddle which I guess would save a small amount of wire and the ammeter was deleted. extra money was saved by not piercing the switch panel, where a simple test button was installed. I forget the procedure but I think it had something to do with the tail lamp and this button to see that your dynamo was charging????No doubt someone will enlighten us! Ron

PS just read up on it. You turn the lamp switch to test and rev the engine. The tail lamp gets bright to prove it's charging. The button on the headlamp is the dip switch.

lateswitch01
lateswitch02

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

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