Chemical blacking is the finish on many NOS parts but it's not often seen on restored machines and is a subject rarely, if ever, discussed here on the forum....Something of an omission from the rivet counting perspective I would have thought...Ian
When I was a lad, we used to sing a song about it...
"The moon shines bright on Charlie Chaplin
His boots are crackin’ for want of blackin‘
And his owd fusty coat is wanting mending
Until they send him to the Dardenelles"
There are hot, medium and cold processes...The cold process can easily be carried out in the home workshop. The medium process requires temperature control within a given range so not so easy at home...The hot process is an industrial process with definite safety risks if not carried out correctly...
At the machine tool factory where I did my apprenticeship the hot process was carried out at scale for the treatment of machine parts, fasteners etc. None of the processes make the component rust proof...Ian
I oil blacked several parts on the Norton's. Gearbox nuts, linkages and levers, head nuts and handlebar bolts. Easy to do and has lasted 8 years, better than some of the plating.
blacking parts is a DRY protection finish for things that will be stored or used indoors
When used outdoors it must be oiled .
The coatings will hold oil very well and offer good protection provided you do not wash the bike with detergents after which you will need to reoil the black parts
Gunsmith chemical blacking, glueing and browning is easy and easy to obtain. Heat up the part, then paint it on. Repeat to get the desired shade. I've used it many times and it gives an excellent finish, particularly with a bit of oil on it.
That's what I use as well...I've just done some gearbox parts and some hub parts...The one I use is applied 'cold' and I think some caution should be used when heating anything that has been previously heat treated....Ian
That's what I use as well...I've just done some gearbox parts and some hub parts...The one I use is applied 'cold' and I think some caution should be used when heating anything that has been previously heat treated....Ian
Ian, could you post a link to what you have used for this cold blacking please. I have a project that needs some parts blacking.
I've been using this stuff for years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220485088736
I think they do a 'super black'? I don't know if there is a better product? I usually give each piece about 3 goes. Ron
The bottle looks familiar but I'll check what I have to be absolutely sure and post here this evening...
I have found the results are best if the parts are bead blasted first to provide an absolutely clean surface...If not, then degrease fully with clean paint thinners or similar and avoid greasy finger marks!...
One application usually gives a good black finish for me but as this product seems to be acid based follow the washing off/oiling instructions after application or rust will soon appear....Ian
I did this post some time back on the Ariel owners forum on how to hot parkerise (blacken) parts at home. This was the process used at the factory, they called it Coslettising and it was also used on mudguards etc before they were enameled. A bit long winded to do.
I've also tried some black etch primer with a coat of oil...looks very similar quite resistant to spannering and can easily be touched up with a small paintbrush.
When I was a lad, we used to sing a song about it...
"The moon shines bright on Charlie Chaplin
His boots are crackin’ for want of blackin‘
And his owd fusty coat is wanting mending
Until they send him to the Dardenelles"
