I'm working on Lex's Royal Enfield WD/C that was left in France in 1940 by our retreating forces. Lex and Jan spent about a year collecting/making a lot of the correct and missing parts. The previous owner had cut original stuff off and welded wrong stuff on:confused: This is where I'm up to so far. Ron
:smile: Apart from a load of scrap wrong bits, the bike had adopted Triumph heavyweight wheels, a BSA balloon tank, an early rear carrier and a Norton rear guard......All very valuable parts:yum: Ron
Very nice Ron! will bring more missing parts soon, all the non original parts have been sold off, and contributed to buying original stuff, the rear wheel came all the way from Australia, and the alu brake plate was found to be unusable, luckily we could arrange a swop for a later one. I made the choice to fit NOS wartime tyres, I think they're still OK, the front is a John Bull, so probably even prewar, rear is Dunlop Universal, all 3,25 x 19.
Michiel I'm sure Jan will chip in with pictures, but that frame was Royal enfield's design at the time with castings joining the front and rear frame tubes together and was known as the type 1 frame. The casting was replaced in 1943 with tubing and was known as the type 1 1/2 frame and and even more improved/strengthened frame later was known as the type 2 frame. Ron
Strangely. Enfield used a similar version of that casting on early 500 Bullets, later changing it to a bolt up design. My early 53 had it but a 55 frame I have recently acquired is bolt up.
REgards, Mark
Jan converted a correct shape handlebar by welding on the lever brackets and I've welded on the threaded studs for the air and mag levers and been wading my way through fitting the awkward controls. Ron
Ready to bring back to Blighty, nice period Smiths speedo, ready to mount, also a domed glass ammeter, and an early reflector.
Also ready a "Lead-Acid" marked regulator, a batterybox, and some more goodies.
The paint is single pack polyurethane mat which I buy from a local firm. The colour is Khaki Green. There is no formula and I tint it myself by adding different colours by trial and error. Ron
Very nice Ron! will bring more missing parts soon, all the non original parts have been sold off, and contributed to buying original stuff, the rear wheel came all the way from Australia, and the alu brake plate was found to be unusable, luckily we could arrange a swop for a later one. I made the choice to fit NOS wartime tyres, I think they're still OK, the front is a John Bull, so probably even prewar, rear is Dunlop Universal, all 3,25 x 19.
Will post pictures later.
Cheers,
Lex
Not wishing to start a subthread here but your use of old tyres even if N0S is in my opinion only appropriate if you don't ride the bike. My reason for saying this is I have just felt along my right calf and felt the 9 inch scar where my shin bone was poking out in1969, all caused by the original army tyre, a Firestone, spliting. As the bike was made in 1945 the tyre couldn't have been more than 25 years old, I have been mindful of tyres ever since.
Richard.
I agree...It's not sensible to ride on such old tyres which will have deteriorated with age and probably haven't been stored correctly for god knows how long....Never mind wartime tyres, I can still remember new Avon 'slipmasters' in the 70's which were likely to send you crashing to the ground on a wet day if you weren't careful...
Compounds have been improved immensely in the last few decades...Ian
It's Lex's bike and he supplied his own tyres. I must admit they are quite supple, which surprised me. But I still had them professionally fitted at "Poole Tyres". I doubt Lex will be touring on them. Ron
Very nice Ron! will bring more missing parts soon, all the non original parts have been sold off, and contributed to buying original stuff, the rear wheel came all the way from Australia, and the alu brake plate was found to be unusable, luckily we could arrange a swop for a later one. I made the choice to fit NOS wartime tyres, I think they\'re still OK, the front is a John Bull, so probably even prewar, rear is Dunlop Universal, all 3,25 x 19.
Will post pictures later.
Cheers,
Lex
Not wishing to start a subthread here but your use of old tyres even if N0S is in my opinion only appropriate if you don't ride the bike. My reason for saying this is I have just felt along my right calf and felt the 9 inch scar where my shin bone was poking out in1969, all caused by the original army tyre, a Firestone, spliting. As the bike was made in 1945 the tyre couldn't have been more than 25 years old, I have been mindful of tyres ever since.
Richard.
Richard,
Grateful for your concern, but these tyres were still wrapped in brown paper wrapping, and had been stored dark and dry, have great confidence in them, I have a lot of scars too, but not becouse of tyres, but will keep an eye on them, it all depends if the bike is nice to ride or not, weather I will use it a lot or not.
I agree...It's not sensible to ride on such old tyres which will have deteriorated with age and probably haven't been stored correctly for god knows how long....Never mind wartime tyres, I can still remember new Avon 'slipmasters' in the 70's which were likely to send you crashing to the ground on a wet day if you weren't careful...
Compounds have been improved immensely in the last few decades...Ian
Same message as above Ian, will monitor them closely, but they are just really nice!
Lovely work Ron.
By the way I am thinking of having the girder forks rebuilt on the M20 as there is a alarming amount of play and was wondering if you knew who I could use ?
Regards
Paul
Paul there is no one that comes to mind that I would recommend for specific fork work....BUT! John Brewster manufactures spindles, bushes and headstock bearings for Triumphs and actually re-bushed a set of forks for a friends Triumph.
You could start with a new set of links from Russells, although I wasn't very impressed with the set I bought. But it is quite possible to make new pins and silver solder them into the links. Then re-bush the forks and ream them to size.
Lex's tank has been blasted and had some braze and lead work and I need to check it for leaks before starting to shape it up. I've acquired some correct NOS taps and Jan is making the tank bolts. Ron
The tank was still leaking after the brazing, but is back for more repairs, hope it will be succesfull this time!
More progress on other fronts, let the pictures speak for themselves.
Still need the sidestand, if anyone has anything? I have the hinged end part (same as Norton) and the parts that bolts to the frame is being made, only the about 12" long "spike"is missing! (see last picture)
Hi Marcel. It depends if he marries one of his many girlfriends? All the bike bits indoors will have to stop then:smile:
Today I buttoned up the primary, foot rests and brake pedal. A problem with the brake rod as it's too short (must have been cut for the Triumph wheel that was in it?).....But I've made a start on the wiring. Ron
I finished getting the awkward internal pull throttle on and working today. Not the sort of cable you'd want to replace at night on the road side :upside_down_face: Ron
Look at the comparison pictures, you can't get more original than that!!
Also the rear brake rod arrived, and needed to be shortened by an inch, was for a WD-CO I believe, spring and nut now removed, as that was not fitted originally, the wing nut is original.
Behind the scenes, while Ron was getting his hands dirty, I have been studying pictures, manuals and parts lists, (and pestering Jan for info!) to get the best results on this restoration, now some more plated parts to fit, and the petrol tank, and fuel line, and I think it will be almost ready!?
I am however working on the side stand, that was also missing, just need to make the tapered tube now. Bolts are the tank bolts.