Questions? Looking for parts? Parts for sale? or just for a chat,

The WD Motorcycle forum

WD Motorcycle forum
Start a New Topic 
Author
Comment
View Entire Thread
Re: Correct color BSA 1944

I worry about the primer, not for the final color of the bike, but for the parts where the paint will wear out.

For example on the footrests or the brake pedal, for sure with the passage of time the paint will come away. In this case, you will see the primer, (gray, red, etc.) and I wanted to know if you originally used a specific primer color or not.

Thank you

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

A lot of wartime vehicle production was not primed. Expected service life was only a year or two, sometimes less and a rebuild included a repaint - some more rough and ready than others. Roads weren't being salted either.

My early-war Norton in original finish showed evidence of a thin black layer on major components but nothing on mudguards etc.

Small Lucas components such as the regulator boxes also show no signs of a primer layer.

If you want good adhesion with a modern paint then I'd suggest tinting an etch primer with your top colour.

While you're at it, no use of modern fillers of course. Any repairs will have to be lead.:grinning:

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

I think the primer used back then would have often been the good old fashioned 'Red Oxide' primer

This is my favorite red primer (brush or spray)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xbondaprimer.TRS0&_nkw=bonda+primer&_sacat=0

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

After sand-blasting with fine grit and low pressure, I had all parts of my 1942 M20(including spokes and nipples !) powder-coated with dull RAL6014 as a primer, and put on a final layer of 1944 army green with a rattle can. Scratches and other superficial damage will not penetrate the hard powder coating. Not something for the rivet counters and purists, but now I have a reasonable chance the bike will survive another 70 years...:relieved:

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

Ron, your experience is far wider than mine, but I found no trace of red oxide on my 16H...and certainly never seen any on Lucas parts such as headlamps. I really do think that they skipped the primer stage. Would those paints not have been lead-based and given a certain amount of corrosion resistance anyway ?

My worry about Han's method of applying powder-coat would be the build-up on critical dimensions and the loss of detail on areas like frame number...plus it melts if it gets hot on engine mounts etc. Horrible stuff in my opinion.

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

I have to agree with you about powder coat Rik. I just do not like it or see the need for it.

You are also right about the lack of primer. There was none at all on Ben's Royal Enfield, The hand painted black came off easily with the professional paint stripper I use, but the single coat of Khaki Green under that was a sod to remove (Good old fashioned lead paint I guess)

I only mentioned the 'Red Oxide' as a primer of the period in answer to the query of what colour to use now.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

Red oxide primer was certainly used on Matchlesses! don't know about Nortons, have not really investigated that yet, just presumed they did too?

Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbi(XX).net (think about this!!)

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

I did quite a bit of research on this and found a chap who was ready for retiring that year in his seventies. He said his first job as an apprentice was mixing up the lead paints for the mod and as I was trying to find someone to do the same he offered to help.
He said that often the mod did not use a primer as the lead chromate paint stuck like something to s blanket, and was almost impenetrable, but some did use a thinned down khaki green as a light undercoat to really protect them.
He offered to make me a small tin of each as project samples, paid for on the understanding that when my massive contract came to fruition, they would get first bite at the order. With a wry smile, I accepted and it has been sat in the den waiting to go on my 1944 m20 when it is ready.
Work has stalled my progress for the last 18 months, but I am getting back on track and looking forward to the build. I have tested the undercoat on the frame and it really does look tough.
I just need to remember not to lick the paint when finished !
Darren

email (option): D Wrudd at Lineone dot Net

Re: Correct color BSA 1944

That's useful to hear, Daren. It's what I had deduced from examination but good to have it confirmed.

A light coloured primer tinted with the top colour is probably the best way to mimic the process.

Nieuwe pagina 1