There is gearbox info in the 'Technical' section and if you contact Hans or Henk I'm sure they will translate to Dutch. Ron

http://www.wdbsa.nl/download/Gearbox%20work.pdf

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron,
So there are THREE bolts at the backside(?). Just found one (till now). Peter

email (option): p.pauwels@hetnet.nl

OK , figured it out. Just overlooked three small nut at the back. Next problem: two of them easy to take off, but number three...oh man! What kind of spanner is required? Do I really have to loose the oiltubes? Who ownes the clue?

email (option): p.pauwels@hetnet.nl

Yes if you read Hans Muller's 'Gearbox Work' in technical, he explains his solution under 'useful modification'.

I once watched Henk replace one of his gear-change springs at the campsite in France, so I know it is possible, although he did compromise and leave one bolt out on assembly......He could maybe give you some tips....in Dutch. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes it can be done in the field but only because Ian had a spare spring that I could use. It are just basic tools you need for the job but it's a bit fiddly to reach these bolts. I don't think I removed the oil lines. This was in 2011.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Years ago I replaced the 3 bolts with studs and 3 nuts.
Hope this will make working on them easier in the future.

Peter, if you take the cover off, the kickstart shaft will come out, but the gear shaft will stay in place.

Thanks a lot guys. In 2014, at the campside at Reine Mathilde, suddenly my 4th gear had disappeared. A Dutch guy (very small tent, next to Henk's, Leon was his name) managed to get the cover loose and adjusted the gear. I still am wondering how he did it so fast. Now it's my turn, unfortunately.
I think a cut down a spanner to reach a wider curve. Will be continued...I'm afraid. Peter

email (option): p.pauwels@hetnet.nl

I've removed the cover & replaced a spring without disturbing the oil lines. A long time ago, but I would've used no special tools or spanners. Bring cleaning equipment, patience, expletives as required & celebratory alcoholic beverage. But it can be done.

Hello,

I'm in the middle of gearbox work and I can tell you that Hans' modification to studs vs. bolts is a good mod. I can also understand Henk's decision to omit one of them is understandable as one of them is quite a bugger!! I had to take the gearbox out, so I put all of the studs/nuts back in before refitting the gearbox. True confession time.... am I the only one that failed to put in the footrest support in before the primary rear cover, clutch spring, cush drive & spring, primary chain, clutch dome? AHHHHH!!!!!! Many explatives! After a two hour detour it's all back together. Also, no need to disturb oil lines. Best of luck!

email (option): jamescusteau@yahoo.com

James, when I acquired my M20 nearly 30 years ago, someone else had omitted that spacer. A new spacer was one of my first purchases from Russell's. I then cheated! I slit the spacer through, opened it up enough to get it over the footrest bar and then squeezed it shut with some gland nut pliers. The same spacer is still fitted, even though I've had the primary off several times since. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Hi Ron,

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that has committed the same crime. I was beginning to question my sanity! I have another 1-2 hours of work left to do before I can take the old gal out for a ride. I did the sealed bearings installation and new bushings, now the gearbox feels less sloppy, and best of all....I topped it off with oil and NO leaks on the bench the following morning!! To those that are reluctant to dive into the gearbox, if I can do it...ANYBODY can!

Best regards,
James

email (option): jamescusteau@yahoo.com

Hello James and Ron,

I'm in the same category - I missed out the spacer behind the primary. but the good news is I took the gearbox cover off without removing the oil lines with the gearbox in the frame.

The spacer was replaced by making up a brass bushing, cutting it in half, then placing a jubilee clip around it and tightening. This saved me taking off the inner primary cover, which was good, because the engine sprocket didn't seem to want to come off at all. So I put the clip in place, attached the loose end, and then moved the two halves of the bushing under it and tightened. It was fiddly to do but it worked, and so far continues to work well. I made sure it was a stainless clip (salvaged from a Mercedes top hose, as I recall) because I didn't want to have to do it again if the rust crept in.

The gearbox cover removal and replacement was a bit of a struggle at first, but it simply required lots of patience, and a suitably short spanner.

On removing the cover I too found the selector springs to be at fault. Mind you, I'd taken the clutch apart by then, convinced that it was at least part of the problem. The gearbox now selects quite nicely. The clutch problem involved those thicker-than-original clutch friction plates. When the clutch warmed up the plates grabbed, and gave me some anxious moments at traffic lights. I removed a friction plate and a plain plate, as so many people have recommended. So far, so good.

Best wishes,

Allan

email (option): allanmatchless@yahoo.com

Hello,

Not only did I forget to put the spacer in..... I forgot the whole foot peg!!! Still beating myself up, kind of like the guy in The Da Vinci Code movie.:smiley: :sweat_smile:

email (option): jamescusteau@yahoo.com

Folks,
I’ve managed to take the cover off. Just by loosening one oiltube. Now you can reach the bolt easily. And indeed: the spring is broken. Perhaps better order two instead of just one. Peter.