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Re: authentic colour scheme

And no matter what shade you end up painting it every 2nd "expert" who looks at it will tell you and every one withing 200 yards just how wrong the colour is CAUSE HE KNOWS

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

Re: authentic colour scheme

It is a strange one! As surely there must have been some sort of paint code for all the different manufacturers to get their KG3 mixed to. Obviously there is inevitably bound to be shade differences between different paint companies and even batches from the same company can vary which is apparent even from today's computer guided mixing systems.....Always buy you B&Q Sky Blue kitchen paint from the same batch.

And of course I should have said that I've mixed 3 1/2 Liters and not 3 Liters. Plenty enough to repaint my 5SW with some over when it arrives. I'll often mix and use up obscure colours or non required tins of paint as build up layers or under mudguards etc. To save on top coat paint.

My preferred paint these days is, single pack polyurethane matt mixed by my friendly local auto paint firm.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: authentic colour scheme

I'm very happy with the colour of my version of KG3, the problem I'm having isn't colour, it's finding a paint that's petrol resistant enough. I used 2pak on my 16H, although it is reasonably petrol resistant it is too shiny in Matt and needs dusting over to get a proper Matt finish. This is very time consuming, so after restoring the B25 which was cellulose paint from John Critchlow and is very petrol resistant, I mixed this KG3 in cellulose. Not as resistant from my local paint suppliers and a good rub with a petrol soaked cloth started to take it off a sample piece. OK that's not the treatment anyone is going to do to your bike but it's not good. I tried some Polyurethane paint from my local supplier and that came easily with petrol too. So I'm going to try some from Ron's supplier which has passed the petrol text on a sample piece. Annoyingly I've sprayed all the small parts of my project which is loads, I'll now have to go over them with this new lot of paint.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Re: authentic colour scheme

Dear Nick

I recently finished the restoration of my bike and being a complete novice about the WM20 had the same issues in the end I copied an Olive drab colour that came from a modelers paint and took it to my local paint shop to match, Although illegal in Hong Kong where I live I manages to obtain Cellulose as the matting agent you can add does make the paint go matt, the 2 pack colours still have a slight sheen. I haven't had any issues with petrol removing the cellulose and remember 30+ years ago cars were all painted with cellulose without issues before 2 pak hit the market

20180725_155509


email (option): deepsea@vol.net

Re: authentic colour scheme

I agree with you Stuart. 30-40 years ago products did work a lot better than today's products. But in the modern H&S regime all things must be safe for a toddler to drink!

Nitromoors paint stripper, Finnegan's Hammerite and Humbrol enamel are just some of the products that I've relied upon since the 60's. But sadly none of them come anywhere near my expectations anymore. I've heard guys bemoaning the fact that Halford's cellulose paint will just wipe off with a petrol soaked rag......I'm very grateful for my local paint shop these days. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: authentic colour scheme

You can still buy proper paint stripper on ebay.

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