Yes that's correct Rob, if the lip was the other way round you wouldn't be able to get the crank out the casing without taking the bearing out the crank case. The inner is tight on the crank, not like the ball bearing on the drive side which is a sliding fit.
There are also shims that go behind the inner for adjusting the end float, it's not easy to take the inner on and off to do this and there are also shims that can go under the bearing in the casing.
If anyone needs any assistance with bearings please do not hesitate to email me off site.
I have been dealing on bearings for over 30 years and have built up a decent knowledge in that time.
there are many 'budget' brands out there which are usually Chinese rubbish but there are also other options which are pretty good too.
Some of the tapered roller wheel bearings are getting a bit scarce and the few stockists who have them charge a ridiculous amount for them so be careful.
I am here to help and advise if needed but email is best as I often don't get on here for a while as it can be hectic at the office sometimes.:-)