I have no damping action on my forks as the bottom links are rock solid.

Before I give them a bit of heat and a little persuasion, is removal of the bottom links the same as for the top links?

The procedure looks the same i.e. remove the long bolts and ease them out.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Is it possible that the long bolt is just too tight? Yes you can remove them in the manner you described, but the spring might bounce things apart. I always remove the top links first, then progress to the bottom links. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron.

I have all bolts out and can remove the top links, but the bottom links are locked up.

On my bike there is no grease nipple on the front bottom link to pump grease into the bushes there. The stiff bit seems to be in that area.

To be clear I have three grease nipples, two for the top links front and back, but only one for the bottom back.

Is this normal?

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Pat regarding the grease nipples. Correct that the top links have one front and back. The bottom front link should have one at the rear (offset to the right side) the back link has one each side.

I think you need to remove all links to investigate/clean/lubricate. I've removed them in the past without removing the wheel, mudguard or headlamp etc.

Support the bike under the sump on a box or jack so that the front wheel remains on the ground (unless you've already removed it?) If the wheel is still in, you can chock it fore and aft. Tap out the top links (a wooden dowel/broomstick/hammer shaft is best).

Remove the damper if you haven't already. Then with the use of your wooden drift, tap the bottom links out. Once you have removed one bottom link (whichever one will move) you can get to the last one from the inside with a drift.

Hopefully it just needs a thorough clean and rub up with fine emery. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

I've never liked the grease nipple arrangememt on the girder forks...

With a single nipple to lubricate two bushes the result is inevitable...The grease will take the easiest path through the bush with the greatest clearance and the other bush will be under lubricated..My forks had rust on the link pin on one side!

I've been working on my front forks this week as it happens and before repainting them I am looking to modify the greasing arrangements so there is direct greasing to each bush...

It largely comes down to the positioning of the additional nipples so that they are accessible with the grease gun, but a first look makes me think it's achievable...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

It seems that getting grease to the correct parts was a problem, later war handbooks say you should use C600 Oil in the fork links.

Rob

email (option): robmiller11(a)yahoo.co.uk

Using thick oil makes more sense. It moves around better than stiff grease.

Though it will be even more inclined to take the 'easy route' from a single oiling point...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

BSA M20 toolkits carried an oil can and a Tecalemit grease gun, the oil can wouldn't fit on the grease nipples, so could you put C600 oil in the grease gun, would it function and would it leak?

Rob

email (option): robmiller11(a)yahoo.co.uk

That bottom link at the front is definitely the one to keep an eye on.

Anyway, all good now. Thanks for you help.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

when I remove/replace anything along these lines I wipe the parts with Wynns friction proofing then use a moby grease [can't spell the word in it's entirety] as it is very long lasting. kind regards

Molybdenum grease...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com