Hi all,

About to start looking at my frame alignment. Have found the great alignment gauge information on this site.
Just wondering though, I noticed a bend in the cross member between seat mount points and wondered if it was supposed to be there or that it has been bent?

Just want to get it right.

Cheers.

email (option): marty.whyte@gmail.com

That section should be straight. The rear mudguard uses it as one of its mounting points and if bent may push the guard too far backwards... Jon

email (option): jonsewell8@hotmail.com

You also need to have the rear brake stay fitted to get the right spacing across those rear spacers.

email (option): rays54@hotmail.com

Also note that the front down tube is 1/8" bigger than the saddle tube, so a 1/16" packing piece should be added under the straight edge at the saddle tube.

The frame in your first picture is mine and had a hard life before I acquired it. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

And something else.
As you can see, there is a big hole in the frame under the saddle. I made a steel bush for the bolt inside to prevent it from squeezing the frame (that sometimes happens).
It's a two-piece bush with a ring in the middle to make it fit tight.
It takes a bit of fiddling, but it works.

Thanks all.

Cheers for the comment on the brake stay. Didn't pick that one up. Good thinking also on the bush in the seat tube. Everything helps, also probably stops giving a home to spiders! ahahaha. (I'm in australia)

Dammit, now i have to find a brake stay as well, before I can get the frame straightened and blasted. ;)

Cheers.

email (option): marty.whyte@gmail.com

If everything else is in line and straight, I wouldn't try straightening this (my personal view only). Do a dry non-painted assembly with the wheels and mudguard on, then take a view.

With the saddle on and voltage regulator on, no one will ever see that it isn't 100%. The only person it might bug is you.

The problem with trying to straighten this part of the frame is that you could throw out something else.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Good point about the brake anchor, but you can pack it with a suitable amount of washers for checking purposes. I didn't use the standard brake anchor for this project, I welded a separate lug to the frame. I adjusted the frame accordingly and straightened it like this. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

['With the saddle on and voltage regulator on, no one will ever see that it isn't 100%. The only person it might bug is you.']

['The problem with trying to straighten this part of the frame is that you could throw out something else.']

My problem is I can't sleep on a night if I leave something like that!...:laughing: ...

If the frame is set up and any 'tweaking' done to straighten it overall the small cross bar can then be 'locally' heated right at the bend point and straightened without too much force being applied using a copper/hide mallet...That's how I did it on a rigid B31 I owned...A final check to ensure nothing has moved and it's job done...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Ian,

Sometimes, leaving well enough alone is good too. But much like you, I like things done propper like. ;)

Cheers. I'm looking for a rear stand for my '42 if you know of any.

email (option): marty.whyte@gmail.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mdwAkWvWMw

Have a look at this video for some ideas.

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

I had two goes at straightening and got it right the second time.
It is mostly common sense but a few pointers may help. The cross member you are concerned about should be straight. I cut mine through to straighten each rear half of the frame separately, then fitted a spigot and braised it up again.
By fitting shims or washers between the bottom rear spacers, you can make small alignment adjustments.
The rear webs that secure the wheel need to be 100% vertical and parallel. This is where I went wrong first time round. I got it right the second time with the help of some heat.

email (option): pvlietstra at gmail

One more thing, Marthy.
Look at the picture of Ray, above.
Make sure the engine plates are straight where the gear box is fitted. If not, fit a ring.
Otherwise afterwards you will have trouble sliding the box to adjust the chain.

Thanks guys. Much appreciated tips : )

email (option): marty.whyte@gmail.com