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Re: oil

In a forum of mostly sociable types, I would have thought an opener of “Sorry but I strongly disagree because....” would have been more appropriate.
But what do I know? Apart from manners.....

Re: oil

roy
Ron you are right about it.........never put modern oil on the engine when it is not overhauled......the sludge inside an old uncleaned engine will be act like grinding paste that you use for grinding the valves..
the aditives in a modern oil will clean up all the old stuff in the engine
Total rubbish
Detergents are not solvents, they do not "clean" your engine.
All they do is surround particles that are not oil.
This stops them forming "big" lumps ( we are talking microscopically big , not naked eye big ) and holds them in suspension so that the oil filter car easily remove them.
As they tend to stay in solution , they tend not to drop to the bottom of the oil tank and form the sludge we are all familiar with.
And as they are too small for the course mesh filters to remove they stay in the oil circulating and eroding plain bushes, not that there are many in a M20 engine.

Thus they totally defeat all of the filtering system on an M20 unless you have the in tank felt oil filter fitted.


And for once Wikki has it right so go read the definition of detergent oils

Now as for the oil in your M20,
Any oil made today is a lot better than any oil made in 1940.

Diesel oils are all high detergent , usually a lot higher than car engine oils.
That leaves you between a rock and a hard place.

The 20W50 would be the better of the 2 choices.

THE BEST OIL FOR ANY BSA IS THE OIL THAT HAS JUST BEEN REPLACED.
So go with what is the cheapest , buy it in the biggest container that you can get and change it a lot more regularly than BSA recommended.

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

Re: oil

Out of interest I did consult Morris Oils the last time there was a discussion about gearbox oils and was advised not all modern gearbox oils are suitable for the old bushed gearboxes...I was happy to accept their advice and as I didn't feel the need to change oils anyway I didn't bother to try and sort out the 'good' from the 'bad'...
Personally, for the last 45 years I've used engine oil for gearboxes as recommended by BSA and haven't had any discernible problems...

I've owned my rigid 1951 B33 for 40 years and it hasn't had any major gearbox components replaced beyond the initial rebuild and what would reasonably be expected over the miles covered....Both that bike and my M20 have over 100,000 miles under their belts during my stewardship so it seems to me on the subject of gearbox oils a large amount of 'navel gazing' is pretty much a waste of time...

I really can't understand why anyone wants to 'improve' something for no identifiable advantage that doesn't appear to have any discernible problems in the first place....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: oil

Well there is opinions which every one is entited to have and conversely others have the right to agree or dissagree.
Then there are things presented as FACTS and as such are either true or false.

Every one feels they have the right to peddle total rubbish and total rubbish need to be called out.

The simple TRUTH is no detergent ever cleaned anything.
All they do is envelope them so they can be removed.
And this applies equally to your dishes as it does to your oil.
Emulsifiers and water at a high pH remove the junk from your plates, the detergent simply stops it redepositing on the plates or on the kitchen sink.
Soap is an emulsifing agent and cleans things like your hands, but because soap does not contain detergent, the dire removed from you nether regions will stick to the sides of the bath, we call that a soap ring and usually remove it with an acid solution.

Because people put detergent in their sink and the plates come out clean the INCORRECT assumption is the detergent cleaned their plates.
This got picked up by ignorant useless peddlers of lies & deceipt , called advertising agencies so they made all sorts of claims hoe a particular high detergent oil will leaver you dirty old engine clean enough to perform operations on .
Then all the armchair experts who never so much checked Willpedia , let alone do any serious study on oils or even read a book start sprouting all sorts of garbage about how using a detergent oil will rip all of the baked on crud off the inside of your engine causing total destruction on the very first start up.
This sounds really cool so like the best bovine vomit, get regurated at infinitum by all the Feaces Book heros looking for something to bring meaning into their meaningless lifes and console themselves with lots of likes.

Now because this is a civilised forum where we don't call people names, a piece of rubbish gets called out as rubbish without any attack on the person who presented it which would not be civilised.
We all ( and that includes me ) can and regularly are wrong, and being wrong is neither a crime nor sin, so hurling abuse at the peddlers of wrong information is not on and not done.

Now if you really want me to i can explain exactly how the molecules of a detergent attach one end of themselves to the impurity and then side bond with each other to form a complete envelope and if you are really unlucky I could probably dig up the lecture notes with all of the equations that I have been exposed to and were available in my undergraduate years, but those who can understand would get bored to death and those who can't will get equally as bored.
In fact keeping us awake was quite a job and we needed to be able to reguritate this stuff in order to get that little piece of paper.

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

Re: oil

Ian Wright
Out of interest I did consult Morris Oils the last time there was a discussion about gearbox oils and was advised not all modern gearbox oils are suitable for the old bushed gearboxes...I was happy to accept their advice and as I didn't feel the need to change oils anyway I didn't bother to try and sort out the 'good' from the 'bad'...
Personally, for the last 45 years I've used engine oil for gearboxes as recommended by BSA and haven't had any discernible problems...

I've owned my rigid 1951 B33 for 40 years and it hasn't had any major gearbox components replaced beyond the initial rebuild and what would reasonably be expected over the miles covered....Both that bike and my M20 have over 100,000 miles under their belts during my stewardship so it seems to me on the subject of gearbox oils a large amount of 'navel gazing' is pretty much a waste of time...

I really can't understand why anyone wants to 'improve' something for no identifiable advantage that doesn't appear to have any discernible problems in the first place....Ian
All oils marked "Syncro safe" are safe to use in BSA boxes.( Syncro cones are mostly brass )
I use different oils based on their colours.
This allows me to work out which part is heamouraging at a glance on the floor.

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

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