Seeking wisdom from experience please.
The rims that came with my basket case are powder coated by the previous guy. They make an ominous rattle of what I am assuming to be rust flakes within the lips.
So the question is not should I replace but rather with what?
These are WM3-19 ones, is that correct for a ‘43 WM20?
TIA
Scott
Yes, they both are WM3-19.
The hole layout of the front is quite special, as the head of the short spokes on the drumside are all in the same direction, the corresponding holes in the rim are at an offset from eachother to prevent the spokes forcing eachother out from straight too much.
So if you want to make it correct take care the hole layout is same as Original.
These people should know about WM20 rims by now if your rim needs replacing:-
https://www.devonrimcompany.com/
A bit of flaking material in the rolled edge is common. You can drill a smallish hole or open up the one that might already be there and suck out what you can with a hoover, then poor some oil in after you've painted the rim.
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
I thought this was going to be about doing wheelies on WM20's! :laughing:
email (option): mfarnay@bigpond.net.au
Thanks Ron,
Saged wisdom as always, I’ll give that ago and see how much comes out!
Scott
There's a good chance that if the wheels have been powder coated they will have been media blasted and that stuff gets in every
nick and crevice and is probably whats rattling in the rim beads.
Regards
Ken.
then poor some oil in after you've painted the rim.
Fish oil to be precise and don't skimp on it
A 1/2 can in each side
email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au
WD 40 is handy as it comes with a red plastic straw for poking into small places and it does kind of stick and set, and I believe it's made with fish oil.
Talking of preserving oil, I ordered and received a 5 gall drum of 'Rock Oil' which is used as a long term protection for bare metal. It's the sort of stuff you get all over your hands when you work with sheet steel. A very good idea for these plastic containers, would be a small pocket in the bottom to put your fingers when you try and poor some into a jug. Like what I did 2 months ago and been suffering with a trapped nerve in my back and left leg ever since:sob: Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
I feel your pain Ron,
I had a bad back for years until I realised that maybe thrashing a 1000cc Metro to work and back around 30 miles of Norfolk back roads might not be helping.
Then I figured out that with empty hydrolastic suspension I was effectively driving the heaviest go-kart in the county!😂
(But by god it was fun!!!!)
Binned the car and lost a bit of weight so now it's only "heavy gardening" that I can't do for too long, well that's what the missus believes anyway!😉
I digress, thanks Ken, Trevor and Ron for the tips I will use them all as soon as I can get hold of a 5 litre drum of WD40!
On a separate note, what's the feeling about ditching the felt seals and replacing with the modern Viton equivalent?
Scott
email (option): LarkesrATgmail.com
Talking of preserving oil, I ordered and received a 5 gall drum of 'Rock Oil' which is used as a long term protection for bare metal. It's the sort of stuff you get all over your hands when you work with sheet steel. A very good idea for these plastic containers, would be a small pocket in the bottom to put your fingers when you try and poor some into a jug. Like what I did 2 months ago and been suffering with a trapped nerve in my back and left leg ever since:sob: Ron
FWIW it is based on feline urine and came about because some seamen noticed where the cat urinated rusted far less than the surrounding area.
It is not a lubricant once it has evaporated
It is not a rust preventer once it has evaporated
The longest protection it can provide would be over winter and then only if it was applied to run off.
Fish oil is a rust preventative and sealer which is why I mentioned it first.
email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au
If you used fish oil in Northern Europe, the bloody stone martens would be chewing at your tyres before you even stopped moving.
All I can say is. I used to spray my entire 69 Trophy with WD 40 (Paint and chrome) at the end of each season. Next spring it was like wiping thin grease of.
I read an article on WD40 about it being developed by a Swedish guy and fish oil was involved. WD = Water displacement and 40 refers to him being satisfied after his 40th attempt. But I never met the guy so can't confirm. Ron
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com
It doesn't contain fish oil after all. The formula is a trade secret and never been patented. Ron
"Norm Larsen, founder of Rocket Chemical Company, is considered the original founder of WD-40," according to wd40.com. Larsen aimed to develop a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry. He succeeded at the goal, Water Displacement, on the 40th attempt, hence the name.24 Jul 2009
WD-40: Strange Facts and Myths - Live Science
https://www.livescience.com/7818-wd-40-strange-facts-myths.html
email (option): ronpier@talk21.com