I've just had to replace the steel clutch plates & it's time to do up that bloody centre nut again.
I know there've been posts here about this before but can't locate them. Does anyone have their own tips or special tools (yes, I've got the compressor the manual shows you, but there's no feel to it)?
For myself I have a Heath Robinson contraption that uses G clamps placed behind the clutch to bear on a plate that fits around the nut & compresses the spring but it's fiddly, very fiddly.

Bob

I tried to use a tool and found it unstable and dangerous to use when the spring is compressed. I use a simpler method, and if you email me I can send you some sketches to accompany my narrative below:

1. Buy some stainless steel zip ties at you local hardware or auto store. They are about 1/4 inch wide by maybe 6-8 inches long and quite thin in cross section. They are commonly used to secure rubber boots to auto stub axles and CV (constant velocity) assemblies. You will need two per attempt to bind the spring when compressed.
2. compress the spring in a large vise (I use a harbor freight 5 inch vise) until almost coil bound, the spring horizontal with the open ends left and right. Leave space at the top to thread the zip tie through and around the spring, and crimp the zip tie closed to bind one side of the spring when it is compressed.
3. Slowly release the spring from the vise and turn it over to the other side. The compressed side will release slightly, but not much if the zip tie holds properly. The spring will then be bound compressed on one side and (relatively) unsprung on the other.
4. After removal from the vise, turn the spring over so the unsprung side is at the top and compress in the vise again until almost coil bound. Thread the 2nd zip tie through and around the spring and crimp the tie shut while the spring is still compressed.
5. Slowly release the spring from the vise. If all is well, the spring will be almost coil bound, held evenly compressed by the 2 zip ties. Leave the loose ends of the zip ties uncut for now, you will need them later to remove them after clutch assembly.
6. Assemble the chain wheel, clutch plates etc. and the clutch sleeve, place the compressed spring in place and start the nut on the clutch sleeve.
7. screw the nut until the spring starts to compress slightly, and, with the assembly in a vise, use nippers to cut the zip ties. You should have many more than 3-4 threads engaged on the nut/clutch sleeve. The spring will snap into place, but the nut will hold it secure.
8. Use the nippers to pull out as much of the remains of the zip ties as you can. Don't worry if some small tie pieces remain stuck under the spring end(s). I have done this several times and the remnants won't come out in service, but can be removed the next time you service the clutch.

This approach works. You have control of the spring compression and release from start to finish, and the stainless ties are plenty strong to hold the spring compressed. No expensive custom tools to buy or fabricate.

Good luck with your project.

Dave W.

email (option): dwdiak4@gmail.com

I take the whole clutch off place it on the floor stand on the spring and spin round, works every time for me.

There are a few vert well thought out tools around for doing this.
I still use the original WD tool and find it acceptable.
the trick is only to tighten it just enough for the nut to just touch the threads
Then press on the nut to get it to engage with the threads.
when you are sure it is threading on simultaneously turn the clutch nut and the tool nut.
Done it so many times I can now do it in the dark.
Rob Nottier did the best tool ever but he no longer makes them any more

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au

Trevor have you got a pic of the original tool please.

email (option): mfarnay@bigpond.net.au

Here's my home made tool, ironically I used an old Triumph piston. I've also got Robb Nortier's sockets for clutch and cush nuts and my impact gun is perfect for the job......Never a problem. I can't imagine you could do the nut up by standing on it a spinning?? Ron

photos to upload



upload hoster ru photo

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes, the spring is a fraction larger than the nut, so if you use a ring which just fits over the nut you can depress the spring and turn the nut on without the spring force. This way you can feel how the nut turns on and avoid thread damage (and thread wear). By far the best way IMO.

email (option): m.wijbenga@hotmail.com

I modified the tool as described in the WW2 Manual, see the Technical Section of the website, "Clutch spring tool". Now you can engage the nut nearly fully. and still can slide the tool out sideways.

Well done Hans! But my Triumph piston works on or off the bike. :laughing: Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

You are absolutely right Ron; I had no Triumph piston available, but if you can provide me one....:grinning:

I put the assembly in a large Record woodworking vice with the spring and centre nut in place. The vice had large flat jaws and as I close the jaws they are sufficiently parallel to ensure the nut meets the clutch centre square on and the threads are aligned. With the vice jaws done up with just gentle pressure I can rotate the centre nut and it engages with the thread.

Thanks for all the replies folks. I'll take it all in. I had a couple of goes with the standard compressor with no luck, & then used my own gadget. I don't have the feel for it, perhaps more practice would help.
I've found the Hans Muller piece in the technical section & downloaded that so thanks, Hans.