From reading and being told about the WM20 seeping oil into the sump when its been stood , I came across this while surfing the web while looking for other items .
www.ebay.ie/itm/BSA-A7-A10-RGS-B31-C11G-C12-ANTI-WET-SUMPING-VALVE-STAINLESS-MADE-IN-ENGLAND-/401497462685?hash=item5d7b1d179d
Just wondered what thoughts people had on these ,has anyone fitted one ...... or is it something to stay away from and just drain off any oil that accumulates ?
Thanks
Dave
email (option): davemb42@yahoo.com
Hi Dave,
There were many discussions about it over the years,
And many pros and cons.
http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1275787&cmd=show
http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1382031&cmd=show
http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=16&msgid=1388062&cmd=show
And many more. Just search for key words.
I personally do use it for 10+ years with no issues,
But always check for circulation at the oil tank after I start.
As I do not ride a lot, I was getting wet sump all the time,
And I knew that if I fitted a mechanical tap, its only a matter of time till
I left ot closed and drive, so I went for the automatic tap.
Cheers,
Noam.
I have one on all my three BSAs.
Hi Noam
Thanks for the links , very helpful .I did contemplate tapping and threading the sump plug and fitting a compressor type drain tap into it so to make it easier to drain any accumulated oil .
Reading the attached links I saw a comment from Ian Quote: One other mod. I did do while I was at it was to drill and tap through the crank case drain plug and fit a small bolt into it...That way it's not necessary to keep removing the plug repeatedly with the inherent risk of stripping the thread in the cases .
I think I'll buy another plug ,tap thread it and fit a small drain off tap .
Thanks again
Dave
email (option): davemb42@yahoo.com
Good luck Dave! :+1:
Cheers,
Noam.
Thanks :+1: , think I'll need it :grin:
Dave
email (option): davemb42@yahoo.com
My thoughts on this:
It is an after-market device not necessarily designed for any particular make of machine. It may work better on some makes than on others.
It is a suction line restriction. Good engineering practice is to oversize suction lines and have free flow into pumps.
If it is not primed after fitting, the airlock may cause it to remain closed.
If not mounted vertically, an airlock may also occur.
That said, I know many people who fit them. Yamaha make one for their outboard engines which is also popular amongst dry sump owners.
I have fitted a manual valve. Of course one must remember to switch it on.
email (option): pvlietstra at gmail
There is already one fitted to all BSA's.
On B & M series it take all of about 2 minutes to remove the old ball & spring, tap the case to recover the sharp edge on the oil hole then replace the old ball & spring with a new one.
The external valve is nothing more than a second copy of the original one.
So now the oil pump has to overcome 2 springs 1 ball & one piston before it can get oil into the engine.
Some like to fit them I consider them trying to teach granny to suck eggs.
My M20 takes about 6 months to drain the oil tank but as I ride it once a week wet sumping is not a problem.
The B40 took a bit more work to get the hole true but eventually I got it to keep the oil in the tank
And the A 65 was a daily ride ( as they were designed for ) so I never bothered with it till I sold it.
email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au
Thanks for the input everyone .............. I think this is going to be a long haul getting to know all the do's and don'ts :thinking_face: I've got a lot to learn :slightly_smiling_face:
email (option): davemb42@yahoo.com
Hi,
Quote:"So now the oil pump has to overcome 2 springs 1 ball & one piston before it can get oil into the engine."
- I removed the ball and spring from the timing cover,
So there is only one spring to push.
When I did not have the anti-sump valve, I could not keep the sump dry.
I did try to replace few timing covers, 1/4" balls, tap it... nothing really helped.
Since I installed a good stainless steel valve, some 10 years ago,
I do not lose even 1cc of oil to the sump, and it works a treat.
As I mentioned before, I do peep into the oil tank to see that I have a circulation after every engine start,
But it never failed so far.
Cheers,
Noam.
I personally, would not fit an oil tap. Have you ever forgotten to turn on the petrol? What if that had been the oil tap..!
email (option): horrorhouse@blueyonder.co.uk
I have a pre war BSA with no factory provision for anti wet sumping so I bought a universal ball bearing type valve to give it a try. Lucky enough the bike is fitted with an oil pressure gauge. After fitting the first thing I noticed was a drop in oil pressure from about 9lbs to about 6lbs so straight away I knew it was restricting the oil flow. According to BSA 6lbs is the minimum required so I thought I would give it a go. About 10 miles into my ride I had no oil pressure, the valve had failed on me while I was riding!
The oil line on my bike is 5/16” and has a bore of ¼” (.250”) and so the area of the pipe, according to my school boy maths taking pie at 3.14, is 49,062 square thousands of an inch. The valve uses a ¼” ball bearing in a 5/16” hole, so if you subtract ¼ from 5/16” you end up with 27,598 square thousands of an inch of oil flow which as any one can see is getting on for, but not quite, a 50% restriction or the equivalent of fitting a pipe with a bore of 3/16”, that's about the size of the petrol pipe.
I was lucky I had looked at the gauge before any damage was done. I would be very interested if anyone has fitted one to an M20 that has a pressure gauge.
Dont know if they are the same but i found out that on my matchless g3l that wet sumps. But after years of removing the sump plug .If when you stop the engine you turn it over till you feel compresion it does not wet sump.