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FRUSTRATION ALERT

**AAARGH!!!**

I'm about to dynamite my BSA WM20... Anyone care to stop me?

I've just finished a winter service on the bike... The bike was parked up in my shed/garage/workshop in November last year and apart from a canvas dust cover, she was pretty much left untouched (as has been the case in the previous years).
I should say, the shed/garage/workshop is not heates, and it's timber construction, so it's not the warmest/dryest place on the planet (things get damp).
Anyway, I changed all the oils, cleaned and replaced oil (and inline fuel) filters, replaced all the fuel lines, drained and cleaned the tank & taps, charged the battery and replaced the clutch push rod, oiled all the cables and cleaned the throttle assembly. Some minor paint touch up as well.

Anyway, I just put fuel into the tank, kicked her over but no spark... Took off the points cover, sprayed with WD40 & tried again... nice spark appeared. Replaced the spark plug, primed the carb and kicked her over when she burst into life.

Having burst into life, she behaved as if I had the throttle wide open & would not return to "normal" tick over... Revving her guts out I tried the idler screw... nothing. (tried the mixture screw... nothing) the ONLY thing that seemed to slow the engine down is the valve lifter, but that is far from ideal...

What have I missed???

Or should I get the dynamite out?

***HELP***

Ian

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

['I'm about to dynamite my BSA WM20... Anyone care to stop me?..']

You can't get rid of an M20 that easily!...:laughing:

It seems you have something holding the carb slide open...Has the cable become dislodged in the slide and jumped out of position?...Is the choke assembly interfering with the throttle slide?...Has the little split collar come out and got wedged against the throttle body at the twist grip end?....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

I'm gonna pull the carb off again and take another look inside of it... Can't think of anything else to make it run like this :-/

Thanks though for the reply Ian

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

You should be able to just look inside the carb bell mouth to see if the slide is stuck up. When you open and shut the throttle, you should hear a definite click as the slide bottoms out. The throttle slide om my 69 Trophy decided to stick fully open as I was on full throttle coming up the big hill out of Weymouth some years ago.....Scary!! Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

Hi guys,

Having pulled the carb to bits, it seems that the carb slide IS sticking... it won't go all the way down, and when gently pushed down fully, it's sticking and needs a little 'assistance' to come unstuck.
I've stripped the carb down as much as I can, but now I have no idea what to do next :-/
Is this a case of a new carb body required, or is there another fix that I've not found yet?
I have not tried to remove the brass jet or base plate from the bottom of the carb, just in case I might damage them.
My card isn't a 276/C1/B but the earlier (so I'm told) 276/014/R.
The round brass baseplate is stamped 301 and the hexagonal jet is stamped 106 (or 901)

HELP PLEASE - all suggestions welcome

Ian

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

Video footage...

https://www.facebook.com/IanFoster1960/videos/1784281304965997/

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

Over tightening the flange nuts can easily distort the carb body. To check it and clean and clear it properly you will need to take off the large union nut on the bottom and remove the jet block. This is best done by heating the carb with a blow lamp or air gun and tap it out with a round wooden dowel as near to the size of the jet block as poss. I often use a hammer handle. Sometimes you can polish the body or slide to get free travel and I've sometimes had to resort to a fine flap wheel, or simply a heavier spring, but that make it harder on your wrist.

Before you reassemble blow out all the drilling with particular attention to the one that lines up with the tiny hole in the bore as viewed from the flange end. These tiny drilling get blocked up with white verdigris and are best poked through with fine wire. Also a good opportunity to check the flange is flat by rubbing it on some emery paper taped to a surface plate or plate glass. Ron
PS just looking at your video, the slide doesn't seem to stick that badly and the spring should overcome it. My guess is that you over tightened the nuts which should have spring washers and only done up to 6 pounds torque. If you've permantly distorted the body? You will have to resort to the flap wheel as you can't buy a new body.

M20_295

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: FRUSTRATION ALERT

Thanks to a friend that was on facebook, I've finally got to the bottom of the problem... It was muck in the bottom of the slides, only visible when the brass centre was drifted out of the body.
Subsequently I have cleaned and polished all the surfaces, and it all seems to slide properly once more.
I will re-assemble in the morning as it's too cold/dark now to be faffing with bikes.
Ian

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

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