What you need will depend upon what condition the bike is in and how much you intend to ride it.
Ride it a lot and you will need both girder damper plates & steering damper plates.
A spare Magneto will not go astray because as shore as poo sticks to a blanket, yours will pack it in 2 days before heading off for the BSA Summer Camp or Normandy.
3 rear chains is a good idea so you can swap them every time they need tightening so they can be properly washed, & lubed prior to being refitted. Chains are cheaper & easier to replace than rear drums & drive sprockets.
A couple of rear stand shouldered bolts is also a good investment ( keep one on you when you ride ).
Put an O ring behind the primary chain inspection cap or you will be replacing that ( where do they all vanish to ? )
You can divide your spares into 'workshop spares' and 'touring spares'(and tools)...There is some info. on the latter in the technical section as a guide...(Under the heading 'On the road-Repair kit')..
ALL workshop spares are useful on the day you need them but you have to draw a line somewhere or you would have a whole bike in stock and you would be making a large investment...Your 'touring spares' will double for workshop spares and by their nature should provide for the most likely eventualities if carefully selected..
On top of that chains and a selection of gaskets as already mentioned should cover it..Light bulbs if you ride at night, a pair of brake shoes (same front and rear) are worth considering, spare cables and a spare solid copper head gasket could all be on the list...Gear change return springs, kickstart return spring,kickstart cotter pin and at least one hub to brake drum bolt are worth having around but they should be in your 'touring kit' anyway...
M20's aren't large consumers of spares once correctly sorted...Personally I wouldn't bother with a spare mag if it has been reconditioned in the recent past, unless you rely on the bike for transport and turnaround time for a mag repair is an issue. Likewise with major engine and gearbox spares...The exception to that is, if they come along cheap buy them....Ian
Best spare to keep handy..........a Matchless WDG3L! [Now I just had to say that]. Failing that, a sub to a trusty breakdown service and credit card! But more seriously, I have come to the aid of two M20 owners (tbf, it could have been any old bike) with a tube of JB Weld "liquid metal" which is VERY handy to fix things like leaking unions or petrol tanks or joints.
:relaxed: I've seen enough of Matchlesssessssess not to want another one....
Conversely I've ridden the M20 to Normandy and back numerous times and never bothered with Eurocover....It always does the job..I haven't broken down on the road in 20 years....Matchless?...All mouth and trousers:laughing: :laughing: ...Ian
Dave, you haven't said where you are, and how accessible specialists or other enthusiasts are. If you're in the UK and close to a magneto man, then you don't have too much of a problem, but overseas or the North of Scotland and entrusting your only mag to the postal service is going to be nerve-wracking and prone to delays.
If you're in a local MV club with some other M20s or Wd bikes then someone close will probably be able to lend parts to keep you going.
Well thanks again to all for the information and advice its very helpful and much a appreciated because I'm a total Rookie when it comes down to the British 4 stroke .As previously mentioned I've raced 2 strokes and my 2 lads race them now ,so 2 strokes I'm ok with( well there's nowt to em ):grinning:
I've been scouring the net and found most of the bits , could anyone tell me the part number for the Gear Return Spring as I cant seem to find it ,also are these the correct part numbers and quantities for the clutch :
One small item not mentioned you should definitely carry is a spare split link for the rear chain.
And a comprehensive list of obscenities to scream at errant motorists- so much more satisfying than using the horn.
One small item not mentioned you should definitely carry is a spare split link for the rear chain.
And a comprehensive list of obscenities to scream at errant motorists- so much more satisfying than using the horn.
Thanks Bob ,I'll get a couple sorted .I understand the comprehensive list is universal and applies to all models ? :grin:
Do you happen to know the part number for the gear lever return spring please ?
Dave
Yes, the standard motorcycling list is adequate. You will of course tailor it to your specific needs.
Ian has listed the return spring part number. Should you have to get the gearbox cover off for any reason, don't forget that rear securing bolt attached from behind the selector casing. Hope that made sense.
Dave
Yes, the standard motorcycling list is adequate. You will of course tailor it to your specific needs.
Ian has listed the return spring part number. Should you have to get the gearbox cover off for any reason, don't forget that rear securing bolt attached from behind the selector casing. Hope that made sense.
Thanks Bob. I'm trying to get together a basic kit for roadside repairs . I've been scouring the net for original tools Russel Motors sent me some NOS still wrapped and labeled tools, I'll of course carry the modern versions just in case .
Yes I'm with you on the rear securing bolt , thanks for that as no doubt I would have been scratching my head :thinking_face:
Dave
Glad that made sense to you as it's not very well put, done in a hurry. I just meant to make sure you locate all the fasteners, some of the bolts can be tricky to get at.
Dave
Glad that made sense to you as it's not very well put, done in a hurry. I just meant to make sure you locate all the fasteners, some of the bolts can be tricky to get at.
Hi Bob
I'll have to spend time having a good look at everything just to get the jist of things. One thing I picked up while reading bits and pieces on the net was ,if its being parked up for a month or so is to drain the oil tank ,if not oil accumulates in the sump ? I'll no doubt be asking quite a few questions over time from owners that know the WM inside out .
Hi Dave
Yes, oil will eventually drain through into the sump. You can run the motor to pump it all back, if possible do this in the proximity of neighbours you don't like as there's a formidable smoke cloud emitted. It's probably not very good for the engine either, maybe gumming things up a bit. Others would know.