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Prop Stand

I know this subject has been mooted on the boards before...but....can anyone recommend a decent prop stand for my M20....when out and about it would be handy instead of hauling it onto the rear stand every time you stop for a wee smoke break.......:relaxed:

email (option): jmmycmullen@aol.com

Re: Prop Stand

Well it should have a field stand fitted as standard. Drags sell them https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/accessories-a-misc/product/13614-

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Re: Prop Stand

Out of stock at the moment...I'd also enquire to determine whether they are the poorly made Indian version before purchasing when (if) they do get them in...

I wouldn't trust Draganfly to get it right personally, based on previous experience...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Prop Stand

Nor would I. Their M21 stand is tricky to fit and potentially lethal unmodified. Fine with different allen heads and a disc cutter though

email (option): j@clogmaker.co.uk

Re: Prop Stand

Hello Jimmy,

Probably everyone will be upset (except for a few) by what I'm about to write - but I agree the rear stand is a bit of a pain in its unmodified form. Some people shorten them to make them easier to use. The desert side stand is good, but my original item was not very strong and tended to distort on anything less than a flat surface. The top pivot was somewhat sloppy, and that didn't help.

So I took a look at a generic 1950s clamp-on side stand. They're on eBay for about 20 pounds. It will fit, just, on the frame in front of the engine on the left side. It will also fit if I remove the chain guard lower section and mount it behind the primary. In this second position it does not risk marking up the crankcase. In each case, fit it as firmly as you can!

So far, so good.

Best wishes, Allan

email (option): allanmatchless@yahoo.com

Re: Prop Stand

The Draganfly item works perfectly once modified. You just have to use longer allen head bolts [ they just work best ] and drop a couple of nuts on them so you can get at the heads over the lower frame tube. Then bolt the unit on just under the primary case making sure you've got rid of one half of the foot. If you don't modify the foot it lifts the bike's back wheel off the tarmac on left hand bends. None of this can be seen by a casual observer as it is hidden behind the chaincase. I bolted the whole thing up and then attacked the foot with an angle grinder. That way you can see exactly what needs removing. Having the back end kick out on a tight humpback bridge left turn is a great motivator.

email (option): j@clogmaker.co.uk

Re: Prop Stand

Allan Hunter
Hello Jimmy,

Probably everyone will be upset (except for a few) by what I'm about to write - but I agree the rear stand is a bit of a pain in its unmodified form. Some people shorten them to make them easier to use. The desert side stand is good, but my original item was not very strong and tended to distort on anything less than a flat surface. The top pivot was somewhat sloppy, and that didn't help.

So I took a look at a generic 1950s clamp-on side stand. They're on eBay for about 20 pounds. It will fit, just, on the frame in front of the engine on the left side. It will also fit if I remove the chain guard lower section and mount it behind the primary. In this second position it does not risk marking up the crankcase. In each case, fit it as firmly as you can!

So far, so good.

Best wishes, Allan
Allan..
That's the sort of thing I am looking for...I have the field stand but it's not doing what I want......especially if parked on concrete or tarmac.....
Must check them out on E Bay......
Many thanks indeed...
Jimmy

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