Hello guys,

I finished with a project now,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5BqKlRLego
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25LYckPDZ_Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcXwYYtxk0U

A bsa M21 which when I bought had a harley Sportster petrol tank,
A very long front suspension, made of 2 Honda (I think) shocks welded together
To create some 5 foot shocks, the front tube running from the bottom of the steering head
To the motor replaced with one some 12" longer, the rear break moved to the front,
Where the 2 chassis sections meet, and was virtually impossible to ride.

I replaced the front chassis with a normal one,
Brought the break back to its normal position,
Left the rear balloon tire and Harley 16" rim (After blasting, powder coating) and new spokes.
I had a front fork off a Suzuki TSX250 which I fitted, after using the same hub
And replacing the 21" rim with 19" one, but kept the hub.
The front mudguard is from Kawasaki, and petrol tank was adjusted from a Suzuki GN250...
The motor is off all NOS parts, including the cases, and 712cc with Ian's piston.
The ignition is electronic auto advance "Power dynamo" with an alternator,
And a new Amal Monoblock carb.

I rebuilt The gearbox with new bearings and almost all NOS parts,
Including the shafts.

All is well, almost.
When I put it into gear, it is dragging, and almost impossible to find the neutral.
All of the clutch plates are new. metal and friction.
The driving plates were locally made many years ago,
The driven ones are BSA NOS.
The friction plates are signed "MADE IN ENGLAND", but new.
I adjusted the gearbox lever and the cable has no slack,
But i cannot get it to completely separate.
After riding for some 40 Miles, it seem a bit better, but still dragging.
Is there anything else to do, other than taking 2 plates out?
And if so, which ones?
The 2 last ones- metal and friction?

Many thanks,
Noam.

email (option): noam10@gmail.com

That's exactly what I would do Noam! Take the clutch cover off and remove the first friction and first steel plate. I run both my 600cc M20 and my Indian special (which has even more power) with no slip or drag and are both light at the lever. The original friction plates were 3/32" (about 2.4mm). Even British made after market friction rings can be too thick. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron for your swift answer.

2 first plates- meaning the ones that go in first
And are at the bottom, nearer to the gearbox?- (Friction and driving plates)
(Actually, I may gat the same result getting the 2 "last" ones out,
as the order is repeating? I am not sure now from memory)

The only down side is to re-open it all now,
After it was all sealed, and my primary cases are with oil...


Thanks,
Noam.

Well it doesn't really matter Noam. But what I meant was, remove the first two plates you come to. So the ones on top of the stack. I agree it's an arse to have to undo it all, but well worth it in the end. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks again dear Ron !

Noam.

There's a piece I wrote about clutch problems in the technical section as well...It covers 'drag' and 'slip'...Ian

Hi Noam, don't know how you seal your primary cases but using grease instead of silicon for the corkgasket saves you a lot of meshing and time.

The grease keeps the oil well in, works great for me. Kind regards, Michiel

Thank you Ian,
And I will definitely check the article on the tech' part.

Michiel, thanks for the advice.

Actually I dipped my finder in the bike's oil tank and smeared oil
Over the 2 sides of the cork gasket.
As far as I can see now, after a week or so- all is well. no drip.

Generally, where sealant is needed, I do not use silicone on the bike.
I am a great fan of Shellac. I use "ABRD" Eagle Shellac.
I like it better than silicone. it's very sticky,(Try to get it of your hands...)
thinner then RTV/silicone in texture, and it does not tens to tear off and get into your oil circulation
Or anywhere else, if you have a build up of an access material in the cases..

Cheers,
Noam.