I'm afraid that this thread title makes me think of 'Deliverance'..

'Squeal like a pig, Boy !'

Great movie that

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

You have to establish if the squeal happens whilst the vehicle is static or in motion. If just in motion you may want to look at the back wheel. I once had a M21 with a crinkle rear hub. The screech came from the hub spinning and the rim not....

Not overloading your panniers like this?............

email (option): fergusanckorn@icloud.com

That lot would certainly produce a loud squeal... ..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

The bike's a basket case.

Ha - cheered me right up that has !

The saga continues im afraid. I now have two sets of roller bearings 1/4 by 1/4 and 1/4 x 5/16. When fitted the 1/4 by 1/4 cause slop in the clutch basket , perhaps 4-5 mm (no slop in the sleeve etc). When fitted with the 1/4 by 5/16 rollers the whole thing feels great , very little slop and rolls really nicely.

I am debating whether to put it all back with the 5/16 rollers or not ? Can I do any damage if I do ?

Cheers and thanks for the continued support

Ant

email (option): antkenmare@gmail.com

I would say that unless you have loads of previous wear, you must be clamping the rollers between the clutch sleeve and the clutch centre, which to my mind means the rollers can't turn and your clutch basket is just skidding round on the rollers. I'm sure BSA used 1/4 x 1/4 rollers for a reason. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Sooooo..

Clutch back in and no noise !!

However it seems the majority of the noise was coming from the engine nut; i couldnt isolate it cos of the clutch noise.

Stripped the cush drive to find there is no spacer or washer behind the sleeve and sprocket. Can anyone show me what these should look like? I think the sleeve has been rubbing against the engine.

Ant

email (option): Antkenmare@gmail.com

I've seen this old chestnut before. The cush drive splined part #56 has a spacer between the outer main bearing shield #109 and crankcase to keep #56 just clear of the crankcase. For some reason, some have the spacer as part of the sleeve and some have it as a separate ring. As I can't see the ring spacer in this wartime parts list, I can only assume it was a later variation. I haven't got one off to measure (maybe someone else has). But you just need to make a spacer ring that's a sliding fit on the shaft and a clearance fit in the crankcase and long enough to just clear the crankcase. I'm guessing from memory...it's about 1/4". Ron

Although at a second look of the drawing. I can't figure out what #116 is. It's not listed in the text, but might be the spacer??

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Yes, you can make the ring from a worn 1" distance spacer which goes between the two bearings on that same shaft.

Choose the length so that the engine sprocket lines up with the clutch sprocket.

Cheers, Michiel

Ok thanks guys.

My crankcase seems to have a lip the same diameter as the back of the sleeve. Is that wear due to the spacer not being there or is there a lip grom new. Yrying to understand if i have done any serious damage. Thanks

email (option): Antkenmare@gmail.com

Here, is hopefully a photo of the damage ...

email (option): antkenmare@gmail.com

That's a wear groove and hence your squeal I'd say. I can't think that it will do any harm once you correct the spacer issue. It would be a major job to weld it, you could tidy it if you're bothered with some 2 pk plastic metal of some type. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Many crankcases are worn here...Just clean the damage up with emery cloth, give it a good clean afterwards and then refit all the parts with the additional spacer...

The 'spacer' machined as part of the engine sprocket carrier is the better option IMO as the whole thing is hardened thus reducing the chance of wear...

The separate spacers, which are not hardened, can develop a burr round the edge due to wear over time...

For that reason don't make the outside diameter of the spacer too close a fit into the crankcase recess, as if it does wear the resulting burr can contact the crankcase making it very difficult to get the spacer out at a later date...(and I've seen an engine that 'seized' due to the spacer becoming totally stuck)

I leave about .080" clearance over the diameter (.040" a side) and also put a slight chamfer on the edges of the spacer....Make the spacer I.D. a close sliding fit on the mainshaft...

If you have access to it you can prevent the chance of any further problems by making the spacer from flame hardening 'silver steel', hardening it after machining.. Harden it by heating it slowly to red and quenching immediately in cold water...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

There seems to be two 113s in the diagram.The main driveshaft is 113 &a component next to the shock absorber nut is also 113. Its not April fool,honest.

If you enlarge the drawing enough you can see that the part by the shock absorber nut is actually (a not very well printed) 116....

That's the part Ron was referring to...As there aren't any parts in that location it probably is the spacer under discussion...

Somebody should send a telegram to the BSA drawing office and complain about the number and the location... ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks all

I have managed to source a new sleeve with the 'spacer' attached.

Thanks for the support

Ant

email (option): antkenmare@gmil.com