I have just fitted new front brake shoes, but unfortunately my cable is too short!

I have some 2mm wire rope which seems to fit the existing outer cable, but wondered about the stretch and breaking strain.

Does anyone know if brake cable is made from special steel/twist to minimise stretch and maximise breaking strain?

Regards

Pat

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Do NOT do this.
Motorcycle Bowden cable, especially brake and clutch cable is special. There are plenty of professional people out there who will make cables to order, just search on Google. I make my own up from kits (readily available) but you have to know what you are doing. You cannot take chances in this area.

www.venhill.co.uk/Resource/Documentation
On the link above scroll down to "Guide for Cable Construction..." and "Cable Components..."
Between then they give a good background, including the difference between the typical cable types.

The "rope" I have is 2mm 1x19 galvanised steel.

I was just going to solder the old nipple onto it.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

In case you have not heard of it before (I realise plenty will have). A tip you might find useful is to obtain, or make, a very slim tapered bit of rod. A bit of suitable thickness welding rod or a large panel pin will do as a starter . Once you have passed the inner cable 'rope' through the nipple you are going to use, cut it off oversize (+5mm) Then open the cable strands carefully and evenly by pushing the taper down the centre of them, hold the inner cable at the other side of the nipple and tap the taper in as tight as possible. Then solder the whole lot together. Once cool cut off the excess cable and rod. This way the joint is not relying solely on the strength and quality of the solder. If it is done properly with a clean cable etc it will never pull through the nipple hole, as the more the tension is applied the tighter the taper becomes. In any case I would use a new nipple to avoid having worn areas that might compromise the fit, or dirt in the hole that will foul and potentially weaken new soldered joint.

What btb is talking about is correctly and technically known as a 'Cats Arse' Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I make all my own cables, I make the nipples on the lathe, just get satisfaction outa doing it I guess, anyway a tip published many years ago was similar to BTB's but the suggestion was to insert a small glazing sprag into the belled end of the inner in the nipple then solder, I have to admit I havn't done this for a long time but just rely on the same method as BTB, probably because I can't find my glazing sprags. kind regards

email (option): woolnough@mchenry

Sometimes people bring me old clocks to repair. Georgian & Victorian clocks & watches are often held together with taper pins like these:

https://www.hswalsh.com/product/400-day-tapered-pins-steel-brass-select-sizemetal

You can get them on eBay too. Might be useful.

email (option): simon.holyfield@btinternet.com

How weird. I just repaired two mantle clocks. The suspension springs were broken and the crutch out of alignment. I have some of these pins somewhere!

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

I have a couple of Fuzee movement wall clocks and yes one of these is pinned in this manner. kind regards

email (option): woolnough@mchenry.plus.com

Do we need a new thread for clock & watch repair problems?

email (option): simon.holyfield@btinternet.com

I always imagine this forum to be like a load of blokes chatting in a pub and the conversation can wander of course.....And who cares?

In a minute a young blonde in a mini skirt could walk in and we'll forget all about bikes and clocks for a while.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com