It's possible the carb float is sticky. After priming, you could try turning the petrol tap off and try start it then. Also, try some advance? Full advance is with the cable pulled tight.

Another thing to try is fresh petrol. Don't know about where you are, but US gas seems to "go off" quickly. Was the bike supposed to be a runner when you bought it? Check with the PO to see if she needs a special starting ritual. They're all different and you might be praying to the wrong god or something?

email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com

When you checked your sparkplug was it wet or still dry? If it was dry, you should clear your carb. Esp. your main and needle jet. Because, in that case, no mixture is entering your barrel.
I dealt with this issue a few times.

Regards, ramon

email (option): noahlevi6@hotmail.com

If you have not had it running at all, and the PO didn't show you it running, then maybe the ignition timing is completely out?

Go through things in order. Stale petrol is unlikely to upset these motors......or any others, arguably! Carb dripping sounds like sticking float which needs sorting out first to avoid fire! Often tapping the float bowl with the plastic end of a screwdriver will help, but you can bypass the problem to get it started by just switching off the petrol,tap and using what petrol is in the carb. Take out spark plug....if it is dry after trying to start the bike, you have a fuel blockage......check and clean out. If plug is wet, check that it is sparking as you turn over the motor, plug out and connected to HT lead and plug body grounded against the motor. If its not sparking, check HT lead, but there may be a magneto issue. If it is sparking, and fuel is getting to the plug, only then worry about the timing. If you try and do these steps randomly, you will end up solving problems that dont exist! If you get fed up kicking the thing over, try getting a push with it in second gear, then you can fiddle with the timing lever as it is turning over.......and avoiding kickbacks if it backfires! Once started, you may well find the dripping float bowl cures itself as the vibration beds things in.

My M21 started doing this a while back and it turned out to be a break in the magneto HT windings. It would arc across internally and spark at the plug when removed but not under compression - took me a long time to work out what it was. If you suspect the mag there is some good info on testing here:

http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/DIY/06.htm

Cheers,
Bernie

email (option): bernie.a.jones@gmail.com

Hi Joseph,

The dripping can be just due to over ticking.

I would let it sit for few hours to evaporate access fuel and try to start-
first with no tickling,
And then with a tickle pressed for 1 second. that should be enough.
If it still does not start, give it another sickle of 1 sec.

If you have a carb cleaner spray, you can give a squirt or 2 into the carb's inlet
And then try to kick it.
(The starter, not the bike, but it might also help you feel better )

It that still does not make it start,
I would try to push it in 2nd or 3rd gear-
Or do than down hill (Better) that should make it work.
If it does start with a push, you would at least know that it is a runner.
If not- I would check the carb and timing.

I repeat, go through the check steps in order.....fuel supply, sparks, timing rather than trying random fixes. Saves a lot of time. I forgot to mention that one potential culprit for lack of sparks is the plug itself, so if you find no spark at the plug, try again with another one. I had a brand new Champion fail after 15 minutes of riding.

Joseph, what is your experience with old English motorcycles ? You haven't mentioned the choke and the handlebar control does operate differently from later machinery. It's obvious if you know it, but can cause confusion.

In my experience, side-valve singles don't like any throttle on starting. There is simply not enough inlet depression to suck any fuel in.

Have you tried full choke and leaving the twistgrip alone ?

The magneto doesn't get that many chances to fire in a single swing so it's important to find a technique that works.

Have you checked that the contents of the oil tank haven't drained into the sump ? If the flywheels are dragging in oil then it is really difficult to spin them over sharply enough to initiate the starting procedure.

Well, went out this morning, did as Roam suggested, just turned petcocks on an kicked it. After a couple of tries it started!
Adjusted choke and advance/retard and managed to drive it up the road and back. After a couple of stoppages I am getting the hang of it. It still doesn't seem right but at least I have it going and can work on it.
Thanks everyone for the assistance.
I think the carb still needs some work/tuning, any advice.

Thanks again,

Joe.

email (option): se98jl@hotmail.com

Just to be sure if you are new to these. If the cable on your mag enters at the rear of the mag by the battery, then you have what we call 'Tight Wire Advance' You handlebar lever should be pulled fully towards you for normal running. Likewise, your choke lever should also be fully towards you. It's surprising how many guys I've met who think the choke lever works the other way......I never use mine anyway Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks Ron. The previous owner instructed me not to use the choke also, said it worked fine without it. "Keep it pushed away from you" he said. Checked the operation of it after your message and he had it full on! Pulled it fully towards me and the bike tikes over like a dream.

Thanks again.

email (option): se98jl@hotmail.com

Simple fix then. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com