So when my bike gets here I gather from reading previous posts that I will be changing the oil regularly. I take it all three oils need checking and changing regularly. Being in hot Arizona I take it I will be advised to use a sae 50 oil. Does any available type work or is anything in particular I should be looking for.
Most sae 50 over here is annotated 'high performance'?

Cheers,

Joe.

email (option): se98jl@hotmail.com

Motor oil debates can get long and tedious. For well over 20 years now I have used nothing but 'Morris lubricant' Classic 40 in all my bikes. They also do a 30 and 50.

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/golden-film-sae-50-classic-motor-oil.html

Their website also offers an international enquiry for your nearest distributor.
It's very easy here and I buy mine from Mick Ash at the jumbles for £15-£16 per 5 litres.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

PS. The enquiry email address. export@morris-lubricants.co.uk

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I gather in the US, you can get suitable heavy grade oils from agricultural/tractor outlets as many farmers still run older stuff.

Assuming most bikes leak oil like mine does you're going to need oil much more frequently than you would a modern bike or car.

Hope you have a big oil tray to slide under the bike when it's in your garage, you'll need one.

My transmission pours out oil just sitting there. Doesn't take much to top it off but it needs frequent filling. Bad oil sealed bearing or maybe it isn't oil sealed at all?

SAE just won't thin out like 10W-30 for example. Will stay thicker at temp. I run SAE 40 in Connecticut, not so hot here most of the time.

email (option): paulscutler@gmail.com

I use aeroshell 100 its a straight weight 40 with no detergents. Its for breaking in airplanes. Its been said here that detergents will harm brass bushings in the gearbox. There are brass bushings in the engine cam gears and itermediate gear as well so its possible those could be effected by detergents as well?

Adam

email (option): xeon25@hotmail.com

I use Castrol SAE 50 in both my WW2 bikes. Engine and gearbox as well
They run great!!

Regards, Ramon

email (option): noahlevi6@hotmail.com

Its not the detergent that can attack any brass (not really recommended for a long life bush) bushes - oits only basically soft-soap after all (think LUX and soft woolies).

Its the additive in EP oils that over a period of time can leach out any zinc content.

As everyone has said, a simple straight 30, 40 or 50 grade oil is good, i tend to use 'diesel' oils as they have a higher detergent content and i'm not afraid of a bit of internal cleaning.
Others have a different opinion on the use of detergent oils.

To be honest, a 20-50 multigrade would be good for wear, but the thicker oils do tend to run quieter.

Agro oils and perhaps an air-cooled VW shop, should have something appropriate.

At the risk of staring "yet another oil thread", Valvolene sell a VR1 racing oil which is high zinc and a straight 50 weight. Easily available (I get mine from O'Reilly's". Friends swear by it for old wheezers like what we ride. If not on the shelf, just ask for it and they will get it in for you.

email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com

I use Pennine Lubricants (I think they are in Sheffield) for all the oils I ever need to use (tractor oils, hydraulic oils, chainsaw oils, two stroke oils, motorbike oils).

That green stuff from Halfords is good if you want to find out where seepage is coming from.

I use a Morris brake fluid oil for my JCB. I have also used their Running-in oil for my M20 and a rebuilt Leyland 270.

Regards

Pat

ps If oil seeps out of the Primary Chaincase, then a) you know it had some in and b) constant topping up keeps it fresh.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

VR1 - must look this up locally.

They reckon all the VW (and others) cam problems are due to the reduction in Zinc/lead content in oils as they damage Cats.

Not for our old WD plodders, but things with real cam wear problems.....

email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com