I'm almost due to disappear for a week with the wife and the two dogs for a break........but when I get back one of my many projects is to build up the spare gearbox I have for the 16H (plus the engine)..........

I recently went through my 16H gearbox parts and have everything necessary to build up a spare gearbox...........I'm surprised at the price of these things nowadays in comparison to similar parts of other manufacturers..........a bit daft in my book....

It's been almost 20 years since I last built-up a 16H gearbox (the one currently in the bike) and the memory is a tad cloudy now...........in recent years I've only worked on Flying Flea's, James ML's plus Burman boxes and can put these together with ease.....but I recall last doing an M20 box that I had no end of problems with until I "timed it" on the bench.........

So, with this in mind, can anyone, particularly the Norton folks, give me any advice or pointers when re-assembling the Doll's Head gearbox........? I have all the necessary written and exploded view information, but as with everything nothing is ever that straightforward.........I can vaguely remember that the external linkage on the 16H box can cause issues if not correctly adjusted............thank you all !

Steve I believe the increase in value of the 'Dolls Head' box is due in no small part to the fact that they use them in Broughs. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

They're used right across the range too which means that Inters including those to 'Manx Racing Specification' use the same shells and racers break old components like they're going out of fashion. They're not a one-model box like the M20 or the WD/CO.

Show me a Manx with a brass gear position indicator and I'll show you one with an ex-Wd gearbox (How very common !)

There are no real pitfalls in assembling the Norton box, assuming parts are in good condition. Adjustment of the rods can safely be left until it is back in the frame. The major wear area is the bronze thrust washer. Andy Molnar sells them.

Hello
There is a washer brass gear between No. 3 and No. 4. It's brass and very important - if they become ineffective broken gears easily and most especially the gear 24 tooth
if u miss any gears i can help you
regards
hussein

email (option): sl_hussein@yahoo.com

If you take the cam plate out and it needs re-timing, this is the position of the plate and the lever when it's against the stop. I have other pictures of my gearbox rebuild if you need them.



I used a Commando main bearing with a seal on the outside and a Commando layshaft bearing will fit as well, a wheel bearing will also fit. Some of the gear bushes were also the same as a Commando, I could try them and play about a bit as I had them is stock.

The biggest problem with my gearbox was the amount of free travel I had to shim up. I had to take the bearing out of the end cover and put a large washer under it to take up the slack. I have no idea why it was that much as I replaced all the shims and washers on the shaft.

You can get new kickstart shaft cork washers from Stu Rogers, a lot of people seem to omit this one then wonder why it leaks.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk