Did you cut the old condenser out of the armature first before you fitted the cap?
If your mag is good you do not have to turn it fast to get a good spark. I converted mine as the bike started well from cold but was getting hard to start when warm (typical condenser symptoms)I found it easy to do following the web instructions on fully removing the old condenser option. laying a cut HT lead on the top of the mag I get a good spark just rocking the mag 180 degrees backwards and forwards around the points opening times, this will be at full magnetic flux.
It only cost £15 and has transformed my M33, done near 2500 miles with the cap and all's well.
But remember your HT coil has to be good and a good magnetic pull to do this mod, if you have fitted the cap without cutting or taking the old condenser out first you will still have the original fault in the armature.
I know some people on this forum do not like the cap but in my case I am running 2 bikes of mine fitted with them and have just converted a 60s Velo Lucas mag for a friend that now starts well as the spark is bigger at a lower RPM.
You may not be as lucky as me but for £15 against £250 for a fully recon mag that the restorer has replaced all parts bearings etc that did not need replacing just to cover his guarantee. To me it's a no brainer, I also find there is more shit talked about magnetos than ever before.
Hope this helps.
It was easy to do. I took out the old condenser. Needed a bearing puller though. Bright spark site has the instruction. However I must of done something wrong or there is something else wrong with it
Hi Noam...I looked at the magneto diagram of parts, but a cannot see where the Insulating Bearing cup fits. The magneto I have is a Mo1. could you tell me where the cup fits?
Thanks for the input. It must be the coil as it sparks great at high speed but next to nothing turning it 180 degrees. Looks like I will have to send it off to the magneto guy.
i did some more research, it looks like the MO1 does not have to have the Insulating Bearing Cup.
I think you'll find it does. I'm not fully conversant but I think it's to do with stopping any earthing/arcing of the mag through the bearing. I also see there are two different thickness's for adjusting the bearing load I guess.
As Rod explained, the races of bearings should be isolated from the mag body.
The race of the bearings goes into a seat which is of a bigger diameter
Than the race, so you should wrap the race with the "petals" of this
Cardboard / gasket material and push it into place.
This cardboard is what holding and pressing the race in place.
I have seen that people made shim out of tin from a soda or bear can,
With same results as what you have.
But how was the mag performing before the replacement of capacitor?
Was it OK when cold?
You might have a weak magnet also,
But assuming the cap replacement was correct,
I would try to take the entire contact breaker assy (2 screws)out and apart,
Check the isolator between its 2 layers, clean it and the points
And re-install the points.
Also check that the 2 brushes-> pick up and earth are ok and springy,
And you might want to clean the collector the brushes touch, with some alcohol.
