M20. Any suggestions of what to check/where to look? I've had to have the clutch to its and took the gearbox off to fit a sealed bearing whilst doing it. The box was always a bit hit and miss with 2nd to 3rd. Tweaked the adjuster link to seemingly improve this at the time. Fitted new chain wheel, centre, spring nut, friction plates. (They were all past their best.) Reassembled by the book. Clutch now disengages on a kick start test with no slip. All gears engage with the engine running and the bike on the stand. Off the stand I can't get it to engage anything, just the dreaded rattle. Re-checked clutch adjustment and it all checks out by the book, but does seem to be at the maximum of its adjustment with the grub screw fully in. Almost as if the new wheel etc sit further away from the gearbox, if you get what I mean. This may have no connection to the inability to engage with the wheels on the floor. Having got as far as I can with what I know and the manual information I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks. Duncan
hi BTB,
I'm no expert but I learned through error that its easy to leave the little woodruff key out when re-attaching the clutch to the gearbox output shaft. With this missing, its possible everything will work when static but as soon as some actual stress is applied, the clutch assembly will spin around when it tries to drive the rear wheel.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Yes Cas, the woodruff key is there. I will go and check what you say Michiel a bout the movement. And yes I have seen Ian's excellent technical article. But I feel my problem is probably related to some difference from standard spec of the new parts. A combination of probably small differences are at the heart of my problems.
I found that the friction plates that I bought was to thick (as per link/picture below). Ended up removing one of each to get proper hight (adviced by people here). Still haven't reached start-up so don't know if it worked.
But maybe this could be your problem?
Been checking through it again this afternoon. Being away from 'base' and lack of facilities doesn't make it easier :-) However, I think part of the the problem is in the new chain wheel, it 'sits' differently to the old one - further out from the centre. Also my old set up had one less steel and friction disc and I now have a full set in. I have a feeling that whichever previous owner reduced the number also reduced the length of the push rod to get suitable adjustment? I think a new piece of silver steel rod of a suitable length will cure it. But it will be a job now for when I am back home. Thanks again for the suggestions. Duncan.
Rod length/hight of clutch plates - tomeito/tomato
Just make sure that the rod you use is hardened at both ends or else you'll soon end up with the same problem again.
An make sure the clutch fits under the bowl with all them high plates.