I recently sealed a couple of leaks in my ES2 tank using instant metal/2 pack resin, which works brilliantly and doesn't burn your paint off. I only used a smudge in the right place and you can smooth it over with a wet finger, then touch up the area with paint. I also did this on my Trident tank over 25 years ago and its' still petrol tight.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

thanks for all your help guys , I went with a 2part epoxy which is Fuel and ethnol proof so will see how we go

Regards
Carl

email (option): carl.chezz@cwgsy.net

I don't think the sealants are particularly problematic now that the manufacturers have got on the case with ethanol resistant products...

I'm inclined to repair tanks that have been stripped to bare metal but once they are painted and particularly if it's a chrome plated tank, sealant is the least destructive option...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian - i tend to think that the problems with tank-lining compounds, are caused by the inability to properly clean/prep the parent metal.
As a result the epoxy doesn't really adhere to the inside of the tank.

I also suspect its used as a bodge - where the inside of the tank is so flaky with rust NOTHING would adhere for long.

I have used them with success - on the inside of a tin-plate Brought-Superior oil/petrol tank (an internal leak, almost impossible to repair any other way) and inside the CCM GRP tank (starting to break up) - but not really had any success with rusty steel tanks (easier to cut rotten bottom out and start again).

I have however been very surprised by how good PetroPatch is !!!

Up untill the 60's a lot of tanks were made from Tern plate which is a lead lined seel sheet.
It was also used in most cars.

POR 15 tank sealer wors very well .
Epoxies do not bond particularly well to steel no matter haw clean it is.

email (option): bsansw1@tpg.com.au