Has anyone got a picture of the correct fixing of the 3HW pannier rear support strap. It obviously bolts to the mudguard, but I haven't worked out were yet? Ron
I've now spoken to three guys who have this bracket fitted and this is how it is. The bolts are roughly 2" up from the bottom of the guard and 3"-4" lower than the mudguard stay. I've also been sent pictures by a Dutch friend of his TRW which appears to have an identical bracket. Ron
from this pix the frames are not vertical and parallel, but lean towards each other at the top - is this correct or photo error ? ![/quote
Yes the frames slope out at the bottom. And that horrible piece of twisted metal is about 1/2" longer on the N/S to add some clearance for the brake arm.
Lex tells me that LMS have loads of NOS TRW brackets
If you're looking for it try Burton Bike Bits as well...The part number is F2254 (or 82-2254 after the letter prefixes were superseded by numerical ones)...Ian
Rvcd very quickly from Burton and my god, i'd never have graced a bike with anything so ......
However IT IS ORIGINAL, so everything's ok (?) - rather more strange is that i now discover that my back mudguard is probably original as the damn thing has bolted straight on ... wondered what those holes were for?
You'll soon get used to P clips, wobbly rear stand, bits of bent tin, flimsy brackets and general lightweight construction if you own a Triumph...I own two of them made 20 years apart and they are both the same...
The outside diameter of the conrod in my 5SW was the same size as the big end eye of my M20!!
It's a bit of a shock after the heavyweight construction of a BSA!... ..Ian
In fact you can tell all the slotted-P clips i've made, simply because they of a thicker gauge steel.
Rather pleased with myself, made head-steady P clip, which fitted - first time - AND i did'nt scratch off all the paint, getting there
I never really restored any BSA other than my old B32 which needed work simply to keep her running, i do remember the stove'ing was particularly good and they never had any cam wear problems (right steel for the job + proper lubrication?).
i learn something every time you post a pix Ron !!
Question - is the line from the petrol-tap rubber or coiled metal?
What type of petrol tap is correct - tell me its not a bloody slider type ....
Slight problem today, was about to fill oil tank, checked everything tight and found ......... oil tank drain plug has stripped out.
I hope its an incorrect fastener - metric instead of imp.?
Because Triumph opted for that stupid single fuel outlet with balance pipe, their traditional twin type tap was used. With a plated copper pipe with brass nuts and nipples. Ron
Bingo and Bugger .... got the coiled metal tubing, sold my twin-tap just before xmas ......... wos offered a very silly price for it.
Still, one out of two not bad.
Don't think i will go with the authentic Spark-plug 'cap' though, i dont mind riding in the rain and i have memoirs of an 'electric leg' from 'wd bullet' days.
REPRO PARTS - am tempted by canvas grips and Y belts from a UK seller on EBAY (181997673927) - any knowledge of them?
Is the seller a forum contributor?