There are some solid copper M20 head gaskets on ebay.
One vendor offers two different thicknesses 1.00 and 1.6mm thick.
Two questions (1) any one tried one of these and (2) why the different thicknesses (ally head v iron head?).
Regards
Pat
ps I have just burned a gap through a composite gasket. It never seemed to seal correctly and the head bolts seemed to need tightening back down more than just a normal re-tighten.
I, and many others, run solid copper head gaskets...The modern composite gaskets can be unreliable and unpredictable...
Solid copper is the way to go. A 1mm thick gasket will give the correct squish clearance under the head so I have no idea why they make a 1.6mm thick version as well...
TT John from this forum had M20 gaskets made...I don't know if he still has them but it's worth a posting to find out...
Solid gaskets should be annealed before fitting...They can be supplied in an annealed state but you need to check whether that is the case...
If not heat (carefully) to cherry red and then quench immediately in clean, cold water...
Gasket sealant is not required if the barrel and head faces are in reasonable condition....
Torque the head evenly to 28-30 ft/lbs and check the bolt tightness after the engine has been run up to working temperature and then been left to go completely cold...It is only necessary to do this once with solid gaskets generally...Ian
Yes I also use solid copper gaskets from TT John. I did run with modern composite gaskets and found that you could re-torque the head bolts up to six times before the bolts stopped moving. Ron
With extended use the bridge between the valve chest & the cylinder burns away.
Usually you clean up the joining face and pop a thicker base gasket to make up the height. or fit a thicker head gasket.
I still have solid copper gaskets for sale, they are lazer cut from C106 soft copper sheet 0.9mm thick and so do not need annealing before fitting. £15 plus p+p. Top quality at a low price.