Recently I bought an Ariel W/NG to complement my BSA and Matchless. On the fueltank and rear mudguard it still has the original signs painted on it. Of course I could just paint over it, but I rather preserve it. Has anyone a tip for me to preserve these painted signs?
Furthermore, the tank has a "bullethole" in it. I'm aware of possible explosion hazard when welding these tanks. Has anyone a tip how I can repair this hole?

Thanks, Maarten

email (option): maartenengels@hotmail.com

I doubt there is any fumes left in that tank for any concerns of explosion. I just swill them out with water even if they have recently had petrol in them. But to be sure I just go outside, stand well back and play the flame of a blow lamp over the filler neck. At the worst there could be a woosh but I've never had it.

I also have the benefit of no H&S department at my workshop.

I also think you could mask up that rear number when you paint the mudguard then varnish over it. Just for historical purposes, even if you then mount a number plate over it. I personally don't think there is much worth saving on your tank, especially after you've welded it. Better to preserve the tank properly and maybe re-produce the markings.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Preserve it on film...That bike needs some paint (and bead blasting)..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hi Maarten

Any chance of a close up picture of the contract plate?

Rob

email (option): robmiller11(a)yahoo.co.uk

Hi Maarten
If you have the opportunity would there be any chance of photos showing this bike all sides,
As Rob says the contract plate also if possible the all important frame and engine numbers.
Regards Jim

if indoubt 3/4 fill the tank with water, turning it until the air bubble is where you are welding ... though i would be inclined to braze it, rather than weld.

Grind out any rust before welding/brazing and dont be surprised when you start chasing a hole as you look for solid material!!!

As for trying to save original paintwork - try T cutting to brighten the colour then scraping to remove any surface rust (and all the white T cut in the rust). Then using a small paint brush to apply a rust killer to local rust.
Depending on the rust killer it will either turn white/grey or black - if former scrape and touch up with a similar color, if latter - you may decide to leave it black.

Finally you can apply some silk or matt varnish - use household rather than automotive - as at least it can be easily removed at a later date.

all above being said - i dont think there's much left to 'preserve'.

Hi All,

Thanks for the replies, I can certainly use some of your tips....
I have an image of the contract plate, more images will follow at a later date...

Cheers, Maarten

Nice bike, Do you have a history to go with it? I would fix the hole in the gas tank and then give the hole bike a good coat of oil the story of the bike is in the paint not only the age and contract of the bike.
Cheers Steven

email (option): goodbell@ripnet.com

Spray all over with plenty of WD40 then wipe with a rag. That will preserve the original finish. As for the "bullethole" just braze it up, it obviously isnt a bullethole 'cos where's the exit hole?

Yes..The story is it's been badly neglected.. ...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Take off the rear mudguard and the tank and find replacements...

Put the originals to one side as a record of the remnants of the original markings...

Take lots of photos...

Then restore the whole bike completely and put it back on the road...

I would suggest apart from the remains of the two small patches of paint, there is nothing else worthy of physical preservation in its current condition and nothing else that relates to any meaningful history other than sadly, a history of neglect and deterioration..

That isn't really worth preserving is it?...

I note, however, Maarten wasn't necessarily suggesting he wanted to preserve the whole thing in his original post so perhaps both sides of this debate are 'barking up the wrong tree'...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

@Keith H.....ah....there is an exit hole....on the other side...

by the way, it has an NOS engine...the plugs in the cylinderhead and carburettor are still in place

Hang on...Didn't Martin just say it had a NOS engine?...If so it's had an engine change so that's not original is it?...

Repair a hole with nuts bolts and sealant?...You can't be serious?..
Apart from the fact it's a lash up repair how would you put the nuts on inside the tank for a start?

These arguments for preserving bikes in this state, if taken to their conclusion, would mean nothing would be restored properly if accepting the spurious argument that some sort of 'history' is being preserved....

It's about time the classic bike scene woke up to the fact that 'f****d' means 'f****d' and stop deluding themselves they have some sort of historical artefact that needs to be preserved when what they actually have is just a rusty motorcycle...

Bikes like this have gone way beyond the point where they are worth preserving 'as is'....I agree the original markings are interesting but the bike is 80% rust with virtually no original finish remaining...

In other words an ideal candidate for a restoration....

Anyway, hopefully the weather isn't too cold today...I don't want the snow to come in through the holes in my original WW2 boots... ..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I totally agree with Ian on this subject. When a bike is fully restored it can look a bit too new, but soon ages with use and is preserved for another 70 years. You also know it's going to be reliable as you've gone over everything and replaced bearings etc. When has "patina" gone too far...? When the bike's just rust..!!

But if you are determined to keep it with it's current "patina", you can wax the bike. I have friends in the VW scene that have a rusty van and waxed it all. It darkens it and looks quite good (if you like that sort of thing).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dorkomatic/galleries/72157625695130067/

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Get the guys who did the antiqued professional paint on this:

https://www.mecum.com/lot-detail/LV0116-228016/0/1911-Merkel-Board-Track-Racer/

email (option): msawicki@mailer.fsu.edu

I've been through this decision-making process with my 16H which had clearly not turned a wheel since it suffered fragmentation and accident damage in May 1940 (it had 1940 BEF markings and the unworn 1939-dated tyres were damaged in line with the projectile damage).

Unfortunately, although it had been dry stored and had almost no rust, it had been roughly overpainted with what may once have been a bituminous paint that was impossible to remove without damaging the areas beneath. It had presumably been disguised from the authorities by the finder at the time he removed the original engine and gearbox.

I took the view that my intention was to present the machine as it would have looked when in service during 1940. This meant going back to bare metal. I carefully matched the colour (that I wasn't 100% successful with finish doesn't detract from the intention)and measured and traced the markings.

The only area where I left 'patina' was on the dull chrome fittings as these were generally in very good condition and it is the devil's own job to replicate - plus re-chromed items rarely look 'new' again - there can only once be machining marks on dimensioned items.

I have sympathy with those who preserve items that have been well cared for. I like to see worn rubbers and polished knee areas on fuel tanks etc. but this is in no way comparable with celebrating the consequences of seventy-years of neglect and bodging.

For me, it was a choice between paying tribute to the men of the BEF (and the Norton factory) each time that I ride, or pretending to be some 1970s greebo trying to run an old bike on ten bob a week.

I would post some photos but Photobucket is playing up.

framenumber is 48400 which is correct for contract number S4554-16, but the engine is not original for this particular bike. Engine number is BH31206, which I cannot link to a specific contract number. The book of Orchard & Madden leaves a gap between engine numbers BH27501-BH30750 and BH32001-BH34250.
I know a saw a lot of NOS Ariel engines in the 80's at a motorcycle garage when I was visiting a friend in Cambridge....probably the engine was "married" to the frame after the war...impossible to retrieve that part of history..

email (option): maartenengels@hotmail.com

For those who are interested....after 3-4 weeks the bike is almost finished..

More pictures can be seen on my Pinterest board.. https://nl.pinterest.com/136mk7raaw3ihxa/ariel-wng-350-rebuild/

Looking great !

Nice to have a bike with some interesting history !

Keep the photos comming 👍🏻

email (option): towersmark84@yahoo.co.uk

Your Ariel is looking very nice.
What color have you used for it?
I am looking for a source of S.C.C.2 paint, or the color code for it in RAL (nobody here in denmark does BS colors)
Cheers
Niels

Here is something Niels! I've found a site that compares colours throughout the world.

Select BS 381C and the colour shade '499 Service Brown' and it comes up with alternative colour RAL 060 30 10.

http://www.e-paint.co.uk/Colour_alternatives.asp

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

PS. And for anyone seeking the RAL number for BS 298 Olive Drab. The equivalent number according to the site in my previous post is:-

7013 RAL Classic Brown grey

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

RON,
i found this site but didn't spot the 499 'service brown'..

My paintwork is obviously too green/yellow/kakhi - as i didn't like my first version of this colour and couldn't take the flak from my mates.

Too late .. its stays as is, as it will be rolling by end of week

Hi Maarten,

Thanks for sharing, great pictures of a great project. It must have been very nice to rebuild a NOS engine, amazing they still come up.

Enjoy the rest, Cheers, Michiel

@Niels,

I've used RAL8027 F9 (the F9 designates an army colour)...it came closest to the original colour which was still present on the frame below the fuel tank and the regulator box....

@Michiel, I had the same thought when it was offered to me....but it proofed to be exactly that....NOS

email (option): maartenengels@hotmail.com

nigP

RON,
i found this site but didn't spot the 499 'service brown'..

My paintwork is obviously too green/yellow/kakhi - as i didn't like my first version of this colour and couldn't take the flak from my mates.

Too late .. its stays as is, as it will be rolling by end of week

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

RON - Yep i'm a Yorkie.

Local paint shop couldn't find a BS number anything like what i wanted - and i have a fixation on RAL numbers after painting so many cars in the past.

The color i have is very Kahki ... similar to an Army uniform -
At the time i was having one of my 'downer's' on the bike and threw some appropriate looking paint at it ......... ho hum!

After last weeks Indian generated electrical issues (i wont bore you) it nearly got kicked into back of garage until next winter (i'm running out of time to make Bonneville decision, MX bikes, other peoples bikes!).
However after sleeping on the problems, it back in favor - though if i don't get it running very soon, it will have to go to the back.

That's strange. I've never had a problem buying BS 499 Service Brown or BS 298 Olive Drab from various auto paint suppliers. Nearly as common as 'Magnolia' from B&Q.

The 'Goose Turd Green by Moonlight Khaki' that you describe is a different kettle of Herrings (early war) as there is no BS number to my knowledge. We are forever mixing greens and browns to achieve it.

Not a problem for my 3HW though. I just bought some of that Magnolia from B&Q
And now fitted with it's exotic rear pannier support strap.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

RON - your bike in the pix has been my inspiration for continuing.

It was the early color i was after (thinking 'uncle dick pix) - the description of 'Goose Turd Green by Moonlight Khaki' is exactly how i would describe what i have - interesting color to photograph as it changes dramatically with the light.

My pet paint mix'er deals mainly with cars and custom bikes, i've now forgot the problem at the time, but what i have is what i have .... at least it looks the part.

Yes my new Y straps look the part, the canvas h/bar grips need some thought how to fix and stop adhesive getting all over them and my h/bars need to lose the Indian chrome (shouldn't be too hard !).
I'm not fitting the tank air-filter as i intend to do some off-roading (well green laneing) and though they dont get used as much as hey did, i would still like to keep the 'jewels' in place.
But later today she should be running around the paddock.

Still got to sort out the front, lower pannier frame mounts, but that can wait.

Could do with an appropriate passenger seat - any decent replica's out here ?

How about a picture?..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

working on it.

Now off its stand and rolling round shed .... boy is it light, actually managed to dead-lift it off stand while wifey removed it - my back is in one pc as well !!!!!

Finally, after waiting for almost 3 months for the wheels to return..... the Ariel W/NG is finally finished for its first ride this summer....

email (option): maartenengels@hotmail.com

Well done on the restoration Maarten, but what on earth is that spotlight on the handlebar? Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I'm a bit nearsighted Ron....with this spotlight I can avoid a head on collision with any kind of wildlife around here...

email (option): maartenengels@hotmail.com