It's been quiet from my side for long time...now there are some news ;)

Let the bike speak for itself... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_Zbi7mdHhc

- Tatu -

email (option): tatu.raatikainen@gmail.com

Seriously? The guy holding it from the front thinks he'll be able to stop it when the other safeties fail? He'll be the first to become chop meat.

On the substance, what was the reading? I couldn't tell.

email (option): jonny.rudge@verizon.net

32hp @ 4500rpm / 61Nm @ 3000rpm at the rear wheel.

email (option): tatu.raatikainen@gmail.com

Hi Tatu...Great!!...I should think you are very happy with the initial power output..and the bike sounds good as well...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Brilliant , well done mate , looks like a lot of fun to be had now after a lot of Hrs input .

Hopefully be getting my M21 Mongrel on the road soon .

Looking at whether to go 12 volt and LEDs at the moment or stick to 6v and LEDs or just use standard 6v H4 bulb ? Hmmm decisions decisions :>).

Cheers
Chilly

'Nothings for nothing'...If you go 12 volt the dynamo speed will have to be higher before it balances the greater demand..

Also you will still be limited to bulb size...I ran my civvy M21 for years with a 12v electronic regulator, standard long body 60w dynamo and fitted with a standard rear bulb and 35w Halogen front bulb....this set up worked well...

If you can get LED bulbs with a lower power consumption it will work even better...

Saying that the 6 volt system is OK if all the joints are good and the headlamp reflector is new/resilvered...I run my M20 like that....

It depends really how much you intend to use the bike at night...If that is infrequently you may as well stick with the standard set up...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Best compromise seems to be 6V + LED's on everything but headlight were you use a 6V 35-45W (or something) QH bulb.

Everyone i know use an electronic regulator and wet or dry Lead/Acid battery.

We do seem to ride more regularly in autumn/winter so at least part the ride ends up in darkness.........

sweet - +32 bhp is not bad, what shape is the torque curve?

The acceleration curve on the screen should be convertible with built-in software to a 'true' torque/power curve.

Any temperature figures, don't seem much cooling?

I see a lambda sensor, up the exhaust - do's it give stable values under load?

Why E85 as fuel, any reason?

Hi Ian, thanks, I sure am very happy with the power!! I did estimate originally "if everything goes well" I should get about 30 hp out of it. But I did not expect that much that easily...we just made couple of runs and didn't really do any tuning. 32 rwhp equals to approximately 37hp from the engine, AND there was 30hp at the rear wheel already at 3500 rpm!! The best thing was the torque, that's for sure. Another thing is the mighty Empire Star clutch!!! Standard plates, standard spring, only mod is the needle bearing that is replaced with a sealed ball bearing to be able to keep the clutch dry.

The starting problem still persisted so I used most of the booked dyno time for kick starting :) Yesterday I tried (unfortunately after the dyno runs) a modern spark plug, Denso IK20 iridium plug set at 0,4mm gap. The result was impressive. First kick, every time, hot cold or in-between. Plus very nice idle I could only dream about when using standard plug.

email (option): tatu.raatikainen@gmail.com

Yes sure I got a power/torque curve from the dyno. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B84u-tGenvZ-Z1hrQWEzT2hUWW8

Hope the link works...that is actually speed not rpm there. it's 3000rpm where the max. torque occurs and 4500 where the curve ends. I did not want to go past 4500 rpm as I'm still a bit unsure what the engine can take :)

We did not even measure the head temperature. Ambient was 17 degrees C. There are big fans for cooling, you just can't hear them as the exhaust is "a bit" loud :)

The air/fuel values were stable at about 12:1 gasoline equivalent.

E85...because I like challenges :D Really because of high compression ratio, 9,3:1 which is pretty much on a flathead.

email (option): tatu.raatikainen@gmail.com

6V is fine. just find the right LED lights and all will be well.

email (option): cas.vanderwoude@gmail.com

Well i'm going to give 12v a go with LEDs front and back ,will let you know how i get on with this set up , my mate has been running this for a while on his B33 with good results , my only difference is the Bates style headlight i'll be using ,will be interesting to see how much difference the reflector projects the beam from the Lucas style light.

Well done Tatu R nice to hear this running even better a road test report! This is one M20 that Ferg on his G3L would see the rear end of .

Also I dont know how your Monster M20 thread turned into a 12V LED/electrics thread strange..

Hmmm ! LEDs , sorry about that Tatu + Dave T, i just mentioned it when passing a comment on my build, got some good info tho :>) .