looking at the original gearing for my 1968 TR250, this was 16 X 49 - pretty low.
Your 54mph @ 4000 rpm in 4th - equates to 81mph @ 6000rpm, my guess would be something like 80mph @ 7000 to 8000rpm would be more like.
As i say, i'm about to put my B25 onto a friends inertia dyno, mainly to get a base BHP but also to sort out my ignition/carb problems I've had all year.
I have the option on a 90x70 B44 motor for next year MX or Bonneville and need to get a handle on the b25 problems.
One thing about this type of dyno is that it can usefully predict road speeds for a given BHP
looking at the original gearing for my 1968 TR250, this was 16 X 49 - pretty low.
Your 54mph @ 4000 rpm in 4th - equates to 81mph @ 6000rpm, my guess would be something like 80mph @ 7000 to 8000rpm would be more like.
As i say, i'm about to put my B25 onto a friends inertia dyno, mainly to get a base BHP but also to sort out my ignition/carb problems I've had all year.
I have the option on a 90x70 B44 motor for next year MX or Bonneville and need to get a handle on the b25 problems.
One thing about this type of dyno is that it can usefully predict road speeds for a given BHP
Just finished last MX/H&H of season - a toughy.
B25 trundled round as ever - FYI now has a flat-slide 30mm OKO carb on it for a change (?)
Yes its pulling 8000rpnm in all gears ............. (fitted Scitsu for practise) and definately comes on cam/exhaust about 3-4000rpm when loaded up.
Various people commented how well it went, turns out its the only actual 250 out there, with many out to 72mm bore (+40 Triumph piston) and a few out to 76mm (T140 piston) - all but one on dope !
To stay off topic for a little while longer. As I remember it, the 'Starfire' I had in the 70's was a B25....I think? And the 'Barracuda' I believe was the American version. But I have heard mention of the Barracuda as a C25. Was there a difference in the engines? Ron
Between C25, D25 or TR25W (triumph) not much general difference, but many many detail changes, including the use of UN/UNC threads, etc.....
Which makes buying one a lottery as most engines by now have been stripped and rebuilt using whatever is at hand - often metric !
Add crap 'pattern' parts and ..............
It was commented upon that my B25 has basically raced for 2 years without it being rebuild
I did point out that it was a 250 originally and no surprise that B44/B50's shred their gearbox, clutch and damn near everything else !!!!
The CCM has a 3 speed gearbox in it to allow for wider/stronger gears and even then it does 3-4 races to a gearbox lay shaft & n/bearing basically cos there's not enough metal to fit anything bigger !!!!
I originally built the B25 as a bit of a joke, the CCM was starting to get away from me due to a shoulder injury and i was just recovering from a knee op.
But it seems to have weedled its way into my heart, its now my preferred weapon for Enduros or H&H/MX with twiddly bits.
Hence its growth towards 326c for next year .
You've just got to watch you don't do the same thing as the B44/B50's and start breaking gears. It sounds like the 250cc is being reliable as it is, it's a tricky one, more power without breaking things..!
Did you up-grade the oil pump? I've read in Rupert Ratio's book that the later pump can be fitted to the earlier engine with a bit of machining. I'm going to see if SRM or someone does a better pump for my 1970 bike.
Torque my friend is the killer - that lovely feeling we enjoy when you wide open big single - and that sinking feeling as it skips gears, as the teeth fall off!
The bottom end has been re-built as per E-V's article on B50 forum, the con-rod is a billet jobby, bought cheap as it was one of a pair for a Daytona.
The rod is a problem area, a trident or later daytona rod will fit, but depending one the year of the crank (mines 1969) you may need to machine the inside of the (removable) flywheels for clearance.
You also need better quality shell bearings, mine are NOS early triumph twin - lead/iridium types - the standard ones are soft and crush out of tolerance when revved.
Re oil-pump - yes mine is one the three bolt cast-iron jobbies, ended up bidding and winning (on Ebay) three pumps which where on at same time - priced from £70 down to £21 !!!
I waited a few weeks until none where listed and sold two of them for more than what i bought the 3 for - tee hee.
Make sure you get the higher output pump, not all CI/3-bolt pumps have a higher output - i think they are marked VC or something, i was able to strip and check which was which.
In my cases, i didn't need to do any grinding of the crankcases - 1970 cases shouldn't need machining either.
One thing i have picked up and will be fitting is a 1970 onward inner-case (cam side) - this has provision for an oil-pressure switch, i'm fitting a 20psi from some car or other connected to a warning light.
Make sure you fit a new crankshaft end oil-seal, that the end of he crank isn't bell'ed and that is is smooth and well lub'ed when you fit the inner case.