Should give you some feed back next weekend - currently installed under B25 s/plug and i will be 'racing' it next weekend @ the 'Pickering Wobble'.
Did intend to fit everything to ES2 for IOM week, but ran out of time .... then forgot, then got doing the 3HW, then uncovered the Dyno, then .................
PAT
Cannot find my damn 'sensor' (the thermocouple that goes under the 'plug) had intended to buy another one from a karting supplier, but again forgot!
Pat - spent much of day suearching for temp sensor - had all the bikes out and checked.
Found my speed sensor and power supply wires for the TrailTech, buy can i hell find the thermocouple, will have to spurge another +£20 for another (probably only a 10p thermistor).
I will fit to Es2 and give you some temps, i need some values myself for Bonneville project.
Thanks. Think I will fit one myself. Running in a new piston and would be useful to keep an eye on temperatures........just don't know what temperature I should be keeping an eye on.
Although the posting dated back to 2015, just recently manage to get the SV Temperature data after running-in the beast and clock out the mileage @ 1200 miles (occasional ride).
The restoration completed in 2015 and the set-up as below :
Model : BSA M21
CC : 600cc.
Piston : Standard
Piston clearance : @max-6 thou
Cylinder Head : Alloy
Cylinder Barrel : Iron
Ignition : Magneto @ full advanced
Spark Plug : NGK BP7HS
Temperature measurement set-up :
Temperature Read Out :
Blue DC12V Digital Thermocouple Thermometer Temperature Meter 9~999°C
Temperature Probe ( Sensor ) :
K Type Thermocouple Temperature Sensors with 14mm id Washer for Cylinder Head
Extra DC Voltage Read Out :
Mini DC 0-30V LED 3-Digital Display Volt Voltage Voltmeter Panel Accurate Meter
Temperature : @right - Blue LED
Voltage : @left - Red LED
K Type Thermocouple Temperature Sensors with 14mm id Washer fastened to NGK Spark Plug and cylinder head.
Temperature Data :
Operating temperature ( riding@ 40 - 45mph ) : 98°C - 120°C
Idle for 5 - 10 minute after riding : 125°C - 140°C
140° above and rising showed a leakage at combustion system such as carburettor, carb manifold, exhaust valve, inlet valve or both valve.
Seizure Temp : 250°C and above.
In both M21 spec and now with ith Ian's 720 kit installed albeit with about 60 thou piston/ head clearance, I regularly see 450F and higher (525F...note the melting thermocouple wire insulation) The bike is being run quite hard with long distances at full throttle. Another friend with a New Imperial 350 saw 625F before his thermo wiring lead parted.
I doubt that there is any difference in the quantity of heat energy being created with either head configuration, iron or aluminium (assuming compression ratio and ignition timing are the same), but I think it's safe to say that the properties of the aluminium head allow it to shed combustion heat faster than the iron variant, no doubt why the factory installed them on the M21 sidecar "slogger".
The thermocouple ring is copper, so I did remove the spark plug crush washer to install; sealing has not been an issue.
A spark plug of a given heat range is designed to transfer enough heat away from the plug's tip to prevent it from becoming an incandescent "glow plug" during hard running, but at the same time keep it hot enough to prevent the plug from fouling,
By design, combustion heat is to be transferred through the body of the plug into the head to be dissipated. (One of the reasons a plug is to be properly torqued during installation) The wrong plug in an OHV engine can lead to major engine failures due to combustion chamber hot spotting and "holing a piston". Our SV engines are much more forgiving in that regard.
Just casting about here, but it makes me wonder if the plug body in the head is not one of the hottest points on the engine, right along with the exhaust valve.... (?)
Also, if you check for head temp operating ranges set for reciprocal aircraft engines, 450F is commonly considered a safe max head temp. If you consider that aircraft engine operating parameters are extremely conservative, there could be considerable latitude for safely pushing the limits on a motorcycle engine.
Combustion temperature with a compression ratio of 5-1 could be (momentarily) expected to reach 3500 degrees...
Under normal conditions the exhaust valve needs to be able to run in a 'red' condition and to maintain its integrity at those temperatures...I would imagine the plug is pretty warm as well...
Anyone who has run an engine with the timing retarded and/or a weak mixture will have probably noticed the glowing exhaust pipe...
Below are the accepted colour 'indicators' and their respective temperatures for mild/stainless steels...
It's a good job all the surplus heat is radiated/transferred away from the combustion chamber...The aluminium piston will melt at approx. 650 degrees...Ian
::C ----- ::F ---- Color
400 -- 752 -- Red heat, visible in the dark
474 -- 885 -- Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 -- 975 -- Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 -- 1077 - Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 -- 1292 - Dark red
800 -- 1472 - Dull cherry-red
900 -- 1652 - Cherry-red
1000 - 1832 - Bright cherry-red
1100 - 2012 - Orange-red