Evening

Although I have been involved with WM20's etc for some 30 years I have never undertaken a strip down rebuild until now. The question is this; now I have a virgin looking frame what is going to be the best sequence to rebuild.

I just need a simple sequence ie:
Engine, gearbox, mudguard or whatever. I want to get it back together whilst preserving all the hours spent on paintwork...

Cheers, in advance

Andy T

email (option): a.tizzard@btopenworld.com

Unfortunately, I would have got the thing completely rebuilt and running - BEFORE final finishing, as with anything British, everything needs to be 'fitted' as things rarely go together without some adjustment - subtle or otherwise.

As you are where you are, the best option is lots of masking tape to protect paint work against small items (oil tanks etc.) and either that white 'crash' foam used for packaging or wooly blankets, etc to drape over the lower frame tubes while fitting heavy items like engine etc.

May even be worth splitting engine (removing cylinder/head etc.) to lighten it while fitting it - a friend is also handy, for the bits you forget.

A sequence, hmmmm, this is how my 3HW rebuild is going:

Bare frame - on a stand, tied down - I'm currently using a black and decker workmate (for various reasons).

Fit front forks - not handle bars, or you will constantly walk into them

Rear-mudguard - easier access without g/box
Subframe for m/guard - basically fitted as a pair.

Gearbox - in my case lots of messing to get it lined up with engine and reduce clearance between g/box and frame.

Check you can fit o/tank and battery holder.

Loosen bolts holding frame together (and g/box retaining bolts) - fit engine plates and then engine

PODGERS - tapered rods, used by riggers to align holes VERY VERY useful - cross head screw drivers can be used.

Once engine loosely in place using s/drivers/podgers - replace podgers with correct bolts - one by one.

Get all engine and gearbox bolts in place - loosely, before tightening anything.

Only tighten all engine/g/box/frame bolts once you are convinced you have all spares etc fitted.
Use Loctite + correct washers and torque up - do it in one go and don't be interrupted - or you will leave something loose.

Fit chain-case inner and outer + footrests loosely with spaces, to make sure it all fits and you have everything.
When convinced its good, then fit inner and fit primary drive - use lots of Loctite to make sure it don't come undone.

Then fit outer-cover and foot-rest connecting rod (needed to keep spacers in place ?) only fit footrest if you have space as like the h/bars you will constantly walk into them!

Check fuel tank and oil tank will still fit!
Loosely fit rear brake lever.

Personnel I then turn to the wheels - starting at the back - though you may need to temporarily fit the front wheel to balance things up and stop it falling off a B&D.

Fit rear chain guard - I can be a struggle if wheel in place ands you have no real idea how it fits !

Check and see if you have everything for the rear wheel and fit loosely, rig up adjusters, fit chain temporarily to see if things line up and don't foul the tinware.
Loosely connect rear brake rod, etc and check to see if it works.

If happy, adjust and tighten rear wheel.

Fit front mudguard and front wheel - loosely at first then if happy tighten.

Before fitting fuel tank and oil tank - its worth wiring the bike as everything is clear of stuff.

Need to stop now as job gets in way - will continue.......

email (option): ginantonik@tiscali.co.uk

Thanks so much for the advice, and the time taken to write it - it really was most useful! I look forward to Par Deux! Andy T

email (option): a.tizzard@btopenworld.com

PART DEUX;

So far I've given the order of build for my 3HW to date - excluding, the number of times I fitted and removed things to the chassis, while determining where things really mounted, re-cutting threads, and generally heating things up[ to get them to fit .

THEN - i stripped everything, blasted most and applied some paint - all before the assembly in PART UNO.

I've describe where I am up to (things are getting in the way but hope to re-start in a month or so's time) - the current plan is as follows;

Sort out my rear-frame (doesn't even fit where it touch's !) - THEN rub down the mudguards which have about 2mm of hi-build primer - doesn't bode well and I expect a blasting and welding job.

Fit Rear-frame and Chain-guard

Fit Mudguards front and back.

'Permanently' fit rear wheel and rear brake arrangement.

Fit rear-stand

Sort out front wheel and front brake torque arm and cable - then fit.

Fit OIL-TANK and pipe to engine (more room to work).

Fit BATTERY RETAINER/BOX/THING.

Preliminarily run wires to front/rear light position, switches, etc. from Battery area.

Fit EXHAUST SYSTEM

Check fuel tank fits and finalize mounting system and piping while still on stand.
Remove TANK

Fit foot-rests and handle-bar and remove from stand.

I SHOULD HAVE A BRAKED ROLLING CHASSIS NOW - so temporarily fit fuel tank and get it started and running round garden.

When happy and rejuvenated - back into garage and start on lighting -
first remove fuel-tank.

Fix headlight in place + any handlebar switching
Then fit REAR light + brake switch(?)

Wire everything up (see technical section) - or fit a wiring loom ?

Fit remaining Advance/retard Choke/de-compressor levers and cables.

Final thing - fit fuel-tank and pipe it in correctly.

Now enjoy.

I must have forgotten something - I'm sure someone will remind me?

email (option): ginantonik@tiscali.co.uk

Well what can I say but a 'Huge thank you' - partially for scaring the living daylights out of me, and moreover for the trouble you have taken to reply!

email (option): a.tizzard@btopenworld.com

Hee hee - sounds far worst than it is - my probelm is that much of the bits dont fit the bike some everything has to re-engineered 9often with a big hammer!).

Current recommendation is;

With engine and gearbox in the frame - trial fit rear-wheel and fit chain;

Then remove both and before oil-tank/battery-box - fit the rear mudguard and chainguard.

Then re-fit r/wheel + chain and see if it all clears.

Finish/paint m/guard and c/guard then fit - before fitting oil-tank/battery-box and tool box, etc.

Just spent ~3 days making all mine fit (still no idea how the tool-box fits ?) - now needs to go for blasting before filling and finishing.
It was that bad !

Or you could consult the Haynes Manual....."Assembly is the reverse of dismantling". . BTW, having now got the Haynes Manuals on Tiger tanks, D-Day, Spitfire, etc, I now await their offering on "Life". I am sure I am doing something wrong. . Good luck with the rebuild!

email (option): Fergusanckorn@icloud.com

Ahh yes, thats my problem ........

Hmmm, i still keep buying them for cars - god knows why, i dread to think what the Spitfire/Tank ones are like.