Horror beat me to it!

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Thanks guys, I think I will have to play a little bit more with it, I attached the battery to the current wires, turned the lights on and.....nothing. I will have to check the entire wiring.

I am currently using a 6V 5Mah alkaline battery.

email (option): mike.kaczorowski@gmail.com

See all previous repys.

You can get wire to wire crimps designed so you can extend wires, so you do not need to solder - look for the expensive ones (usually in a marine shop or Halfords in UK) which have heat-shrink tubing over them - they have adhesive inside so after you crimp them in place, you heat them with wifes hair-dryer and it bonds everything together - no moisture/corrosion and stronger.
Only crimp worth using.

three different colors for crimps - RED (too small for 6V) - BLUE - YELLOW (biggest and probably right for battery wires).
6V wiring needs thicker copper cores than 12V so you may struggle finding any wire thick enough (you can double up thinner wire) - mind you a short extension wouldn't probably matter, so use a thickness similar to existing.

Someone said include a fuse - good idea - get an inline fuse and the wire in/out will probably be enough to lengthen the loom.
Fuse goes in the wire from battery to switch/headlight.
The other wire from battery should go to earth.

Regarding comment by HANS - always a good idea to connect an earth lead from headlight to the frame - otherwise the electrickery has to pass through head bearings and things, losing volts all the time.
Same for rear light cos of removable m/guard section.

As SM says, its easy enough to make your own, but so many good mechanic's have a blind-spot with electrics - that's why auto-electricians make more money than mechanics - and try not to get dirty!

Intresting to know how they did it originally ..

email (option): ginantonik@tiscali.co.uk

Interesting this one

Sometime back I had wanted to make an exact copy of a period wire harness - someone here had one

I had just needed a look, some photos and measurements - somehow it didn't happen - I would have travelled to do this

Now that I have the de luxe project on the go, harness issue comes up again

It seems from photos the wire harness looks like it's just been slapped on and not so tidy as some of us have placed on our own machines in modern times

If some one does have an original that has been removed, I would love the opportunity to examine this to make my own

Agreed wiring a bike is not the most difficult task to undertake, but an old version as a template would be great - as well as a correct routing guide under the tank, seat and to regulator

Anyone out there who can help ??

Job

email (option): Jonnyob1@googlemail.com

I bought my Enfield WD/L from a guy who works in the workshops at the IWM at Duxford. He'd acquired a NOS WD 8" headlamp complete with loom that he passed on to me with the bike. It must be an early one as the ammeter has a dome glass. There isn't much to know really. It has the original heavy rubber covered cable which has some rubber tubing over the first section from the headlamp. All the connections where made to the switch and ammeter. Unfortunately there was no rim or glass with the headlamp, so I had to find those separately. Ron



Of course I had to strip it all apart for clean up and re-paint. But I did reinstate the original loom.

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Thanks for the tips guys, I think I will just sit down and make my own harness, teach myself something useful at the same time. Obviously rubber wiring is out of the question, since no one makes it, however a cloth/braided wire might be a good alternative. Steve Madden posted a good article here on the website about wires. I need to find a dealer in the USA that would be a good alternative.

Ron, can you by any chance measure the gauge of wires on your original harness?

email (option): mike.kaczorowski@gmail.com

Anyone know of a UK supplier for fabric covered single core loom cable?

I rewired my wm20 using a cable loom I purchased from evil bay, stripped it because it wasnt right for my machine and re routed all the cables again.

I would now like to do this again for another bike but no idea where to get the cable...

email (option): fozzie001@hotmail.com

I just realized that why buy the cloth covered fabric, when you can just buy rubber tubing and put modern pvc covered wire into it?

Let me see how this project turns out.

email (option): mike.kaczorowski@gmail.com

Hi All
Mike the size of the original wire that was left on my 42 M20 was as follows. On the regulator F, A & D terminals wires were 26 strands of 0.3 mm diameter, E terminal wire was 16 strands of 0.3 mm diameter, and the Ammeter had 40 strands of 0.25 mm diameter. All remains were rubber covered with tinned strands. This calculates out to regulator wires being 2.05 mm2 and 1.13 mm2, and ammeter 1.96 mm2 cross section of the conductor. Use the same or a bit thicker.
As said above if you use coloured crimps to extend the wires use good quality ones (for mains wiring) and use the correct crimping tool with the coloured dots on the side to show which die to use. I'd fill them with grease (or electrical jointing compound) before inserting the wires
Cheers All from cold wet Kiwi country
Doug W

email (option): watsond@xnet.co.nz

Hey Doug, in essence I'd be looking at 12 or 14 gauge wire then. The 14 would be more suitable to be covered in rubber tubing to be closer to the original wire diameter. I can probably go even lower than that with a 5 amp battery.
I will check this out and see how thick it is.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-25-ft-12-Gauge-Stranded-THHN-Single-Conductor-Electrical-Wire-Black-112-3601A/202564779

email (option): mike.kaczorowski@gmail.com