Hi Glenn..Welcome to the forum...
I have one of the Czech replica MT110s for my 41 M20 that Ron has provided the details for in his post.
They are a very good copy and at about £65, probably a third of the price of a battered 'original'...
As much of any restored bike isn't 'original' anyway, in my opinion good quality replica parts that are hard, or impossible to tell from the originals should be regarded as an acceptable substitute...
In the case of a machine such as the WB30 I restored that has to be the case as parts are simply unavailable..
This is gradually becoming the case even with some M20 parts as well....Ian
I have one of the Czech replica MT110s for my 41 M20 that Ron has provided the details for in his post.
They are a very good copy and at about £65, probably a third of the price of a battered 'original'...
Ian,
Does it have the "Joseph Lucas, MT110, Made in England" stamp?
Kostas
email (option): ferrarakias@hotmail.com
This is the rear of the bike, so what I'm hearing is this is not the correct bracket attached the rear guard for this model?
email (option): glenn.johns@hotmail.com
Here are some more pics, I am thankful for the comments so far and thanks fellas for taking the time to help out. I have checked out the links to CZ. I agree a restro is not original but I guess my goal is to produce a bike that people in the know look at and ask if it's been restored?
At the moment I am still learning about these BSA's and hope I havent jumped the gun too much on buying this one? As I said earlier I can clearly see a couple things but I am sure others will see obvious mistakes. I just hope I havent ended up with something that is totally "out of whack" for the build year... Even before I start.. Or worse yet be searching for bits n pieces that aren't susposed to be on this bike? The more I dig the more confused I am getting.. In comparison my WLA was a piece of cake to research before the build compared to my BSA..
Not sure about this speedo?
email (option): glenn.johns@hotmail.com
I'm hoping this horn doesn't belong near the other end of the primary either? Seat is cool but I am figuring it's not 100% corect either...
email (option): glenn.johns@hotmail.com
Ditch the mirror, the rear light and get a proper battery. Get one of the lights that are indistinguishable from original. Everything else seems perfectly OK to me but there's always the rivet counters on this site to contend with!
An invitation to rivet-count ? They don't come along very often !
If you're intending to restore 'accurately' then you'll first need to decide during which period. Ex-factory or at some point during its service life ? The latter gives considerably more leeway.
Horns changed type and position. Without knowing frame number / original census number, it's difficult to say for certain.
Are you intending to display at shows or simply to have a decent looking bike on the road ? If showing then the best option may be a quickly-detachable number plate, maybe fitted to a pannier, with central WD tail light on a tail section with no extra drillings.
We've discussed the canvas seat covers at length on here. To date, no evidence has turned up to support their use on motorcycles and they appear to have been supplied as gunner's seats in SP guns. Is the Australian 'DD' mark on your canvas original or a later addition ?
You should have pillion equipment on a 1942 bike. Again, types varied over the years.
As Ron indicated, top levers with slotted screws are post-war. I have an idea that brass-bodied 276 carbs were locally made in Australia during the 1950s.
On the subject of Jiri's MT110s, I have an idea that, as per other replicas, they don't incorporate the composite rubber mounting in the bulb holder which was a selling point with the originals. However, any 75-year old original will need unsoldering and re-rubbering by now. The rear part however looks very good and maybe more accurate than some of the post-war MT110s produced by Lucas. Lucas had a serious habit of changing designs without altering part numbers...
Hi Glen,
Where abouts in Queensland are you? Jeff Gordon lives at Stanford near Brisbaine. He has a M20 and a WLA, he could give you a few pointers
Cheers, Dave
email (option): jeepfinger@blueyonder.co.uk
If you're intending to restore 'accurately' then you'll first need to decide during which period. Ex-factory or at some point during its service life ? The latter gives considerably more leeway.
Horns changed type and position. Without knowing frame number / original census number, it's difficult to say for certain.
Are you intending to display at shows or simply to have a decent looking bike on the road ? If showing then the best option may be a quickly-detachable number plate, maybe fitted to a pannier, with central WD tail light on a tail section with no extra drillings.
We've discussed the canvas seat covers at length on here. To date, no evidence has turned up to support their use on motorcycles and they appear to have been supplied as gunner's seats in SP guns. Is the Australian 'DD' mark on your canvas original or a later addition ?
You should have pillion equipment on a 1942 bike. Again, types varied over the years.
As Ron indicated, top levers with slotted screws are post-war. I have an idea that brass-bodied 276 carbs were locally made in Australia during the 1950s.
On the subject of Jiri's MT110s, I have an idea that, as per other replicas, they don't incorporate the composite rubber mounting in the bulb holder which was a selling point with the originals. However, any 75-year old original will need unsoldering and re-rubbering by now. The rear part however looks very good and maybe more accurate than some of the post-war MT110s produced by Lucas. Lucas had a serious habit of changing designs without altering part numbers...
As far as I am aware the 'DD'(Dad n Dave) mark is dinky die ridgy didge. I did read in other posts about the canvas seats not being the correct factory fitted item which leads me to the plans for this bike.
If I can't get the dating and correct factory specs and then track down the correct original parts (or very, very authentic reproduction items) for its build contract then I would keep it and re-restore it [so it doesn't look restored] as an in service bike. In this case I seek help to track down its proper war service history.
I am in Australia and would like to know how this particular bike ended up here down south and what if any service this bike saw and what unit it belonged to in the Australian military?
I guess before I shell out on a fair degree of cash on parts I need to find out the above info?
I really like the sprung pillion seats but I have a sneaking suspicion that one of these isn't correct for this bike? and presume the solid guard mount type is the correct item?
email (option): glenn.johns@hotmail.com
Where abouts in Queensland are you? Jeff Gordon lives at Stanford near Brisbaine. He has a M20 and a WLA, he could give you a few pointers
Cheers, Dave
Always happy to talk WLA and I seriously need to be brought up to speed on the BSA bikes so am always happy to learn.
I found with the 'Yank' bikes there is so many good factory photos in manuals that you can piece together components fairly easily especially given authors like David Sarafan and Bruce Palmer who make it a total rivet pickers paradise to restore one of these in comparison to the WD bikes... But I guess the real reward is in the hunt not the kill, can't wait to pick up the BSA.
email (option): glenn.johns@hotmail.com
Hi Glen,
What a drongo
I saw the QLD rego and thought that you lived there. I guess that your NEW bike is there?
Jeff is a forum member, but I don't know how often he visits. Wow, that Bruce Palmer books fetches a few quid.
Henks CD that he sells has a lot of photos of BSA's in service, it also has parts lists for some years. I got mine a few years ago, worth it weight in gold.
I saw your post in wanted. I have the same oil pipes, like Ron says try Russells in London. My friend that lives in Perth W.A.often orders parts for his M20. There parts list is in the links section on the website. Hope that you have a Fax machine? Les doesn't do the Web
Still have some original stuff.
I guess that when you get the bike, you will be able to see what you need. Keep us all posted.
Dave
email (option): jeepfinger@blueyonder.co.uk