So after taking off the head to remove the kebab stick. :) I thought I would re-time the bike. I thought I could use a continuity tester placed on opposite sides of the probe to tell me when the points separated, but it just showed constant continuity? Was my thinking off? The bike was running before I started so I am a bit confused. Thanks in advance

email (option): jeff@infinitymedspa.com

Sorry but you cannot use a continuity tester on magneto points -as you have discovered.

A DMM (digital multi meter) can be used on the resistance setting (Ohms) but it needs a steady hand (or another pair of) to ensure good continuity.

Or one of those 'proper' tools from ???? (forgot who) which place a very small voltage across the points and then sense when this changes - these really do work and I borrow a friends whenever.

Or use thin paper or a 11/2 thou feeler gauge and guess when it been released, by the closed points.

And yes it is a frustrating fiddle, requiring several attempts - I guess that's why Magnetos tend to be fit and forget, until the spark dies!!

I'm sure other members of the forum will have more useful/constructive replies?



I must admit that my experience of setting timing precisely to a value given in a manual, is not always successful (you need to start somewhere it suppose), I've often shifted the timing from 'standard' to get the engine running better and/or preventing red exhausts - usually because the engines been built from random part from different models/years.

As Nigel points out, you can't use a plain continuity tester on magneto points..

I use a 'magic box' that works as described..

I think it was about £40-£45 and was worth every penny in my opinion as it is far more accurate than relying on 'feel' and a fag paper or similar...

An interesting exercise when you have the head off is to refit it without a gasket and then reset the timing a few times using the timing plug hole in the head and 'conventional' setting techniques'...

After setting each time, remove the head and check the setting...

You may be surprised at the variation in the results...Ian

If you don't have a nice feeler gauge or a fag paper available then a bit of supermarket carrier bag can be used between the points, it's very strong and thin. Also a timing tool made from a 4" nail with the point removed and appropriately marked, the head prevents it dropping in if you inadvertently turn the engine over . I keep both in the tool box "just in case".
Richard

Thanks Everyone for the help.

Ian do you remember the name of the "magic box", I would like to pick one up.

email (option): jeff@infinitymedspa.com

Hi Jeff..I'll dig out the details for mine and post them here later...

If you look on the 'lighting Switch' thread you will see details of another unit there, posted on the wrong thread...Ian

Thanks Ian for you comments, I sometimes think I'm being thick and there IS an easier/more accurate method .... seems the guru's on this forum have problems like the rest of us mortal's.

I'll look for you today, it was from one of the mag refurb companies, I think.

Lucky, found it straight away ...

http://www.davelindsley.co.uk/magneto-timing-detector.html

16H mate bought one when they rebuilt his mag .....

You can use a battery & bulb/ meter to ascertain when points begin to break but you have to remove the centre screw holding the points assembly to armature and fit a fibre washer under the head to insulate the assembly.Then refit the points & just use small crocodile clips on both contacts wired to a meter or bulb/battery. I normally borrow my mates buzzer for setting points he uses it on tiger moths to set up the mags.Or I have found a slither of good old crisp packet will do the job roadside..Dave T