So you don't recommend them then...??

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

And apart from all that. What is the material for the fork lugs made from? I've heard 'cast iron instead of cast/forged steel' and liable to crack! What speed were you expecting to ride at What tube is used? Electrical conduit

Some time ago, Draganfly test fitted some to a bike (Ariel I think) and found also that they weren't jigged correctly on assembly and that you would never get the wheel to run true. Their assestment decision was " For museum exhibit only" Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Like many, I did ask the simple question .... how many have actually failed?

Turns out that my Cuz was keeping quiet about the Indian forks on his Ariel - regularly clocked @ +70mph.
He did manage to snap the top link while levering the fork spring into place (?) - he actually is a fine mechanic, but can be a bit brutal at times...

Anyway - he took said broken bit back to guy he bought them off, who apologized and replaced the full set.
He reckons the only failure he had (he imports them) was once, to the lower wheel spindle lug, caused by someone trying to narrow the bottom of the forks by squeezing them together !!!!?.

BUT - and a BIG BUT, I don't trust them one inch!
As I say, I have replaced the blades & spring with NOS, the spindles will be next (or I may make some up) and eventually the links over winter at a guess.

The plan is to get her rolling, registered and see what it will do as std, and simply playing with gearing.

As someone who was presented by a M/C Club last year with the FORK-OFF award for questionable engineering (home designed forks) - after losing the entire front wheel, slider's, etc - during a race ... I do know how it feels losing the front end off a bike
I didn't get broken, but only just got feeling back in my leg ....

I did not intend this to be a rant against none NOS parts, as some of the original Triumph bits are rather poorly made (austerity ...) - but.....

Couldn't get the wheel bearings to adjust without tight spots - did assume a bent spindle, until last night while sorting the back wheel/brake.

The Bloody wheel nuts - not only are the holes drilled off-center - so they are eccentric, but also drilled at an angle !!!!
Never seen cockeyed nuts before ..

I presume these are Indian - as I don't have a tap of the correct thread, I 'trued' them up as far as I could on the lathe - and now have 4 half-nuts - which luckily seem to be more correct.

I've decided to fit metric front wheel bearings so at least I can made myself a proper (12mm) spindle/spacer/nut arrangement ....

The pile of cast-off Indian bits gets bigger - and I promise I'll not try and sell any of this s**t to anyone on this site ....

All this only serves to confirm my view that these forks aren't fit for purpose and shouldn't be fitted to a motorcycle that actually has to do anything...and preferably not to any motorcycle...

This really is an example of the manufacture of a stressed component without the application of the most basic engineering principles..

Material specification, production tolerances and quality control are all below a standard that could be deemed acceptable, desirable or safe...

I had a good look over a set of replica M20 forks, comparing them to a NOS original set I have and and all I can say is that anyone who argues these forks are an even moderately good product either doesn't understand what they are looking at or wants their head examined....

Preferably not by an Indian psychiatrist.. ......Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Ian, the stuffs everywhere -

After looking at AMA Bonneville 'Vintage' cutoff date of 1956 - decided it would be a better/cheaper idea to find something like a tele/rigid B31/32 than pursue the 3HW idea (the little triumph is still #1 project).

While scouting about, dropped on a tele/rigid 350 Ariel - which a mate bought instead.
Complete with the 'correct' girder forks .......................
Had a good look at it last night and, its worse than the 3HW !!!!!
Apart from the tank (which leaks when more than 1/2 full)its actually difficult to spot a single genuine part, apart from the engine unit and frame.
And this guys a 16H/Indian/M20 owner and bike dealer ..

3HW PROGRESS - spent last nights political TV event to finish rear wheel assembly - as it was supplied using 'full' depth nuts - these have now been nicely machined down to 1/2 nut size - while truing them up, so it all fits into the frame something like.
Its as near as I can guess using a parts book, as nothings original and you don't get pix of details like this.

Back to the front end, so it can be rolling this weekend (so I can throw some paint at it)

The B31 or B33 would be the logical choice in my opinion...

A strong very tuneable engine, readily available parts, access to a range of Gold Star cams off the shelf and a big end that can take a lot of tuning even in its standard form..I've had just over 40BHP at the engine (running pump petrol) on a standard big end...

Also various interchangeable parts from other engines in the range..

Swap out the early B31 gearbox or the 'mangle' gearbox of the later rigid models for either a Triumph gearbox or the 4 speed C11G gearbox for a good gear change (and a reduction in weight)....

The picture is a friends bike which produced plenty of power after some tuning work...

It now has a twin cam Jawa top end and has grown into a 650 but that's another story!...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

And this one made 36 BHP...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

If logic was involved I wouldn't be messing with the 3hw ...

Back in the day I had a 350 DB32 - would stay with the 650's on the M1 down to Mallory, as it would cruise all day at 80.
Interesting comment ref. 11G g/box - always wondered where these stood, strength wise, in scheme of BSA things?

Currently waiting a communication with AMA/BUBA regarding the 'Classic' (pre'75) records - only seem to have 500 and 1000cc records currently set?
Could make the B25 eligible as a modified classic production bike on gas (M-CG) .... as I cannot see me beating current M-PG records held by 350 Morini or a 250 Aeromacchi in p/rod class..... nothing like an obscure record to make it easy.

Bearing in mind the original idea was I was mechanic'ing/crew-chief for the 500 attempt and fancied taking something along....

The C11G box (as shown in the first photo) has the same internals as the plunger A10, apart from the main shaft which is interchangeable...

The only internal structural difference between the plunger box and the S.Arm box as fitted to Goldies etc is a slightly different gear change mechanism....

It will take anything the singles can dish out...

I know what you mean about 'logic'...I only have to look at my own projects ...

As long as your having fun though....

I'm in a state of euphoria at the moment as I've just got my lathe running after a lengthy breakdown...
I've already modified a front wheel spindle for the sprinter and now I'm making the gearbox adjusters and the rearset footrests etc...Happy days..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Hmmm intresting about C11g g'box ... much cheaper than a B box..and lighter.

Just been dealing with latest Indian nasty ...... welded in outer front bearing race .........was going to convert to ball - but as the original tapers are in good nick, looks like i will have keep them -
Trying to devise a grease catcher/slinger arrangement to suit.

Oh yes - watch out for spray on filler - all indian stuff is covered in the stuff - to high the manky quality.

Going off curries .....

On the 'bright' side, its raining like hell up here, so Melbourne sprint/drag will not be doing anything - so all day in the shed.

May have a look tomorrow if wifey gives me a pass out ........

email (option): ginantonik@tiscali.co.uk