What is the knack to re-fitting the rear stand spring!

Do you assemble the rear stand then try and stretch the spring (tried this using a screwdriver and sliding the spring onto the frame bit)?

Tried using a spring puller, but the spring seems extremely strong (or perhaps me very weak).

Tried attaching the spring first then pulling the stand into position.

Your help and thoughts greatly appreciated!

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Just looked at the Technical Section.

Has anyone tried the washer/penny method?

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Is a Tirfor winch attached to a tree overkill?

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

If you look on the 'for sale' section you will see rear stand spring fitting tools available from Michiel in the Netherlands...

I would highly recommend buying one of those..

Without a special tool of some description it is an extremely difficult job to fit the spring....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I've done the coin/washer method. A bit low-tech, but it does work.

Don't ask me how, nor how I did it.......but managed to fit the rear stand with a NOS spring all on my own.......

From what I remember, frame was on the workbench and suspended safely.......stand and spring fitted in position and with the assistance of a 2-foot long steel bar I simply levered it in position enough to get the bolts in place............

Never had an issue with rear stand springs using the above technique, and they've all been bar-stewards whatever the make but nothing too problematic.............

Believe me..a spring expander tool is easier...and the job can be done easily with the bike complete if, for example, the spring breaks...

I made the tool initially because of the difficulty of doing this job without damaging paintwork, levering against things that shouldn't be levered against and the possibility of losing an eye...

The 'easy way' also applies to the clutch spring compressor tool, the tool for removing the cam follower guides, the tool for pulling out the cam spindles, the tool for removing and fitting small end bushes...etc. etc. etc.....

I've made lots of special tools and they always make the job easier and make it less likely to cause unwanted 'damage' to the components themselves and those around them....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

I made a rubbish attempt at expanding a new M20 spring by putting coins between the coils. I got less than halfway before I couldn't bend the spring any more and the ones that I had fitted wanted to fall out I had also calculated that even if I had got all the way with coins, it still wouldn't have been long enough. So I borrowed Ian's puller....But getting my very own soon.
I remember fitting my W/NG spring with a big greased screwdriver as a lever, but it was terrifying and dangerous and I wouldn't want to do it that way again Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

As I said, I was on my own and I did it with no apparent damage to the bike with the aid of a 2' steel bar..........bike frame was on the bench at the time.......

I suspect the reason I can't remember however was I'd had a couple of glasses of "Chateau Collapso" with dinner just before doing it..........I remember the wine but not doing that damned spring ! I also seem to recall lying on the garage floor at some point but that may have had nothing to do with the spring.......But next day it was fitted........

I don't know if this will work at all with the M20 spring, but folk struggle in a similar way with fitting AMC centre stand springs. The "trick" is to not attach the stand, but fit the spring between stand and frame then use the stand as a lever and you will find it is not hard to wrangle the stand over the end of the pivot and slide the pivot home. Much much easier than trying to fit the spring when the stand is in place, but as I say, am not sure this approach would work for the M20.

It doesn't really work well...one way or another you have to stretch the spring and it's f*****g difficult...

If you put the spring on and then try to use the stand as some sort of lever it's very difficult to get everything lined up to get the bolts in...and you certainly wouldn't be able to do that if the bike was complete...

Not much point struggling anyway if you can make up a tool for the job...

I have your new spring expander here Ron...I'll post it up after Xmas unless you are in a particular rush for it...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

That's how I did the stand on my M33

Ian Wright

I have your new spring expander here Ron...I'll post it up after Xmas unless you are in a particular rush for it...Ian

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

I sent an e-mail to Micheal for one of his expanders.

As usual, I want to do it right now.

I will be using either a Tirfor winch, chain block, ratchet strap or scaffold pole.

By hook or by crook that spring is going on.

Wish me luck!

ps Will let you know the results from A&E.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

I always use the washer method, but I use a large vice to push them all in. It works for me every time and once fitted heave bike onto stand and all the washers fall out!

Here's an article Robb Nortiere found in a 1961 motorcycle mag. It's dead easy. You just need a screwdriver, a bit of thin wire, a special punch and three arms Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Shame about the paint on the hub and the bent spokes... ...

I tried wiring the engine shock absorber spring as outlined in an old bike magazine..As soon as I released the vice in which I'd compressed the spring the wire(s) snapped..

This method of fitting the stand spring appears it may have the same weak link...

Talking of which the bit of fence wire (as recommended) to repair the broken chain on my C15T lasted about 30ft before it broke again...

A handy tip though if you break down 29ft from home....

I'm also still trying to get the grass in my punctured rear tyre up to 20psi so it's hard enough to ride on...

Ron, the 'special punch' looks like the hub bolt spanner from the toolkit...not that it will make any difference if you don't have some Kryptonite wire in the toolbox... ....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Interesting that you need three hands to do the job though.

Exactly Ian's. I have tried this method on other machines, using a long lever and wire or string. But the thickness off the wire or string has to be so thick to withstand the strain that the spring loop can't go over its peg. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Done it, took a minute.

With the wheel already off (......don't ask), I took a bit of square galvaised heavy duty tube (a square tube if you know what I mean). It already had a loop welded to it at a right angle about a foot down. Twisted some strong wire around an eye of the spring and the right angled loop. Put one eye of the spring on at the frame end. Offered up the square tube to the stand, levered the spring onto the stand lug (the stand was in the down position).

Carefully I used my knee to keep the lever in place (the eye of the spring was already half on) and tapped the eye fully on with, guess what...the wheel brace.

To get rid of the wire, I untwisted it from the eye of the tube. I then bent it back at forward to get rid of the excess at the stand lug. Using my best wood chisel I tapped the remainder out.

So there you have it, one ruined wood chisel and maybe a slightly ruined wheel brace....oh and some painting to do........but the f*&cking thing is on.

ps You need an Ifor Williams plant trailer for the square tube with the loop on (forgot to mention it took a minute to take this off)

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

On my 16H I wrapped some PVC tape around the end of a screwdriver to reduce the paint damage and to stop the screwdriver slipping off the mounting stud when levering, and fitted the spring as shown in the picture. Can't it be done like this on an M20?

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

I've done it the Norton way with a big screwdriver on my W/NG for one. But these new M20 springs that I've had to fit are so strong, you need Jeff Capes as an assistant.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

The 3 piece M20 springs seem much stronger than the one piece springs on other bikes.

I will post a picture of what I used, as being serious, it took me a couple of minutes maximum.

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com

Hi Guys,

That special punch is in a WD tool kit. It/s the thins that holds a screwdriver tip, and it's real purpose is for the 3/16 WW brake bolts (3).

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Hopefully attached is a picture of what I used.

http://s121.photobucket.com/user/sacombsashtrees/media/007_zpsaa77596e.jpg.html

email (option): sacombsashtrees@hotmail.com