I've just aquired a 1941 G3L in fair condition it seems so far! It's a complete bike with most of the correct stuff although fitted with a later and larger tank and the wrong rear mudguard and chain guard. It's frame numer is 21090 and engine number 42326 and preports to come from the second contract, it carries some badly done markings of the 3rd Air Formation Signals, all non original and only because a letter from an old squady in Cairo had that on his bike with the "C" number C5477778. Now, all this is fairly meaningless to me as I only want a good useable motorcycle just like my dad had but it would be nice to know some of it was correct!
Regards
Richard

According to the Bible, the frame is from an early '41 contract and the engine from a later '41 contract. So close enough to be a pukka early g3l, surely.

If a true early G3L it will have the early rear frame section with the sandwiched steel plates forming the rear-wheel attachment point.........but many of these were later replaced during rebuilds with the standard G3L arrangement..........

Should also have no front stand and ribbed mudguards front and rear (the latter the short variety)..........

Getting an early G3L still in early spec will be a tough job...........

any chance you can post a picture?

barry

Thanks for the info, it's most encouraging

hi
can u send mail to me pleas
thanks
hussein lokman
cairo-egypt

email (option): sl_hussein@yahoo.com

The rear frame here is the one Steve speaks of and is the one I have now fitted to my 1st contract G3L.

Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Richard, the War Department serial (or census) number on the fuel tank is incorrect for your early machine and relates to contract S2604 (frames from 57070 -on).

Your frame started life under contract C9506 which appears to have commenced delivery in August 1941 and is likely to have displayed the number C4589865.

Ian will be along shortly to imply that you shouldn't worry too much about specification as Matchless never made more than two machines to the same specification !

You shouldn't worry too much about specification as Matchless never made more than two machines to the same specification.... ...No, really....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

By that reasoning there is no point in rivet counters counting the rivets is there?

I shall use that post when explaining away the non matching but original rivets on my own bike.

Interesting detail on this frame is that the lugs for the pillion footrests are very far back and much further than the later frames..I have not seen this before. JT

Hi JT.....just looked in the books and the pillion footrest lugs seem to be in the normal position on both the early and later frames, so the one shown isn't any different...........guide/reference point is the rearmost toolbox mounting lug, the footrest lug being to the rear of this........

Factory picture from O&M. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Richard, I have a spare chainguard, I think it's a genuine one as it came from a bike that hadn't been on the road since the seventies, email me if you still need one

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Thanks for all the interest chaps, it's much more than it generated at my local AJS & MOC meeting!
Firstly I've got the cast rear wheel lugs so good news for me and bad news for the historians. Also on closer inspection the front brake/hub is a bit of a mess but I understand from my big brother they never worked very well anyway (can't Dad, haven't got an Ouija board). The fork sliders are also a bit short of sound lugs but nothing a bit of TIG can't sort out I hope. However I don't think that this is going to be a very fast rebuild (never "restored" a bike in my life)as I have my Matchless 500 to put together after gudgeon pin circlip troubles (anyone got any +60 rings?)and my Morgan 3 Wheeler to screw back together, I'm missing blatting down the country lanes sometimes under control.
Those who have offered help I shall be in contact with and thanks again.
Richard

Thanks for that Rik. Here is mine, similar shot. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Shame on you Ron. Where is the correct bolt with the split pin securing the brake plate. JT

Ha Ha John. I noticed that also with the hi res picture. At least you beat Lex to pick on me. Ron

email (option): ronpier@talk21.com

Note also, the early sprocket with the holes drilled around......again, part of the weight reduction exercise........later dispensed with.......

Can anyone hi-res the engine to see if the number's visible ?

Note also the tangs that the regulator box bolts to are welded to the side rails of the frame and not to the cross brace as on later G3L contracts. JT

Only see it now Ron!! but could do with drilling some holes, and put a higher nut on the pillion footrests!!

Have the same rear frame, and 1st contract numbered front frame, just have to put it together one of these days.

Waiting till I find more early front fork bits though, or shall we have some cast?

Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbxxx.net

Hi Lex, what is it you need for the forks? I have a top yoke with the early strengthening ribs you can borrow to have some cast. Alternatively, someone with an arc welder could convert a later one very easily. The early stansions are also a little different as later ones were beefed up. Cheers JT

i restored a matchless last year, it had the early rear end, short ribbed rear mudguard, holes in the sprocket, front was dated 1942.



barry

email (option): mrsbfuller@hotmail.co.uk

Pictures (I think) href="http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/ural177/media/PICT0001_zpse5772401.jpg.html" target="_blank">k)

This might be another one

And another

And the last one for today (I feel quite worn out now!) So tell me what's wrong with it as if I didn't know.

What's wrong with it? Not in MY shed? Looks a pretty good basis for a nice machine, IMHO. Better than most similar I have seen. Quaint formation marking! The rivet counters will be along soon to give you chapter and verse but if you like it, then keep a good pinch of salt handy. Unless you are really after concourse, ie something that never saw the light of day 2 in service? The route to madness, IMHO.

Thank you for all the great photos. I'll be using the,m for my own rebuild.

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Nice bike and easy project. I can't se much early bits on this. If I was to restore the bike, I'd leave the fuel tank, fit the correct rear muduard brackets, front mudguard stand, chain guard, make the correct battery carrier gate, move the tool box where it should be, change the exhaust system to over foot rest. Mudguards could be G3 (G3L front brackets welded on) otherwise I think it seems a nice looking bike.

Thanks Barry

email (option): Mrsbfuller@hotmail. Co.uk

I've now got the correct chain guard, thanks Dave, and my big bother found a fuel tank in the family vault. So now I'm on the hunt for a rear mudguard and stays plus the front brake back plate. I'll keep you posted as to progress, such as it is.
Richard

Did you want the front brake plate? I have one of these too

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Adrian, who posts on this group occasionally makes very good replica rear mudguard stays, which he sells via ebay. I will contact him for you to see if he has any left. Cheers John

Thanks every body for the help.
Richard