On splitting my crankcases, I found the outer bearing is loose in the crankcase-not a snug fit as the manual suggests. My first thought was to Loctite it in on assembly ( Saturday afternoon ). However will this affect any end float? The crankcase is scored where the outer steel ring of the bearing has been rotating. The inner bearing is stuck on the crankshaft. Anybody had anything similar ?

email (option): ggoodwin68@gmail.com

the whole thing sound par forthe course

remove the inner bearing and polish the drive side sahft a bit.

bearing fit will be fine in my experience.
fit of the bearing in the cases ahs no relation to end float its the shaft that moves in the inner tracks, or should do.

relace the spacer between the bearings if worn but if the bearings are ok use them again, there seems to be lots of problems with new bearings, generally too tight on the shafts, or the wrong dot mark

Any advice on how to free the inner race from the crankshaft, its on there really tight.

email (option): ggoodwin68@gmail.com

Maybe apply a bit of heat and a drop of penetrating fluid (WD40) try and get a puller on there, there are other ways but you could damage some thing,

Barry

email (option): Mrsbfuller@hotmail. Co.uk

probably because its a crap bearing, can you see the make?

a couple VERY thin chisels used sensibly might shift it but other wise you'll need one of those split bearing pullers.
just do not jar the flywheels or they'll go out of alignment

The outer one says Hoffman ?

email (option): ggoodwin68@gmail.com

Probably original bearings in that case..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Well had a real struggle but managed to get the bearings off thru a combination of chisel and puller. I am missing the spring and cap that goes over the ball bearing in the small hole thst runs from the brass bush ( oil pump side )to the where the cylinder sits. The ball bearing is stuck in there ( although moving a bit ). I don't know whether there was a spring and cap in there or not( I may have lost it ). There was a compression plate fitted as well. Do I need to get the spring and cap?

email (option): ggoodwin68@gmail.com

its a pressure relief valve that feeds the cylinder wall' the buss will, or should be threaded 3 BA so you can pull it out, then a spring and a samll ball bearing.
hopefuly you havethe correct cylinder with agroev round the base for the oil to run.
It was discontinued much later, but my own opinion is you cannot have too much oil, well on the inside anyway.

Yes my cylinder has the groove. The brass insert that is threaded 3BA is in there and I can see a ball bearing through it. I thought a cap screwed into this insert?

email (option): ggoodwin68@gmail.com

can't see the logic in that

ball spring insert is the order of assembly.

oil is fed up to the cylinder from the T/s bush


a light tap on the ball to seat it when replacing, and thats light as in heavy feather.

use a cheese head 3 ba screw and just leve rout the insert with a coupe scewdrivers or whatever, its not tight.
worth cleaning out while stripped, and yes you should have a compression plate on a WD engine, correct spacers inthe pushrod tube area are essential, especially with the compression plate.