Another question..
I have put in new stearing-head races and steel balls.
When I tighten it all so there's no play on the steeringhead,
but the steering is too tight, it's hard to steer, even on a straight end.
When I slacken it there's too much play.
Am I doing something wrong? Or is a lot of play on the steering head normal?
I didn't drive the bike, only for a couple of miles. Would it all settle down better if it had longer time to settle?
With the front wheel jacked off the ground, you should have the tiniest bit of play at the steering head bearings then lock the pinch bolt. Nothing will repair or adjust itself while you ride it. Ron
They are supposed to be self centring, but if the bearings were run for any length of time when they were too slack the headstock itself will wear a little bit and they will not tighten up. You can help the issue by aralditing the top bearing into the headstock, then assemble the yokes on before the glue sets. I've noticed that the top bearing is the only one that seems to become a looser fit. When you have assembled it do not move the yokes until the glue has gone off, preferably overnight. There were slightly different races too make sure you have the correct part number in its correct place as they are easy to fit incorrectly.
I would recommend JB WELd before Araldite Dave. 50 times stronger. ( I made that figure up). I have seen knackered headstocks that were welded and modified for a different type of race.
this is either wrong parts for some reason or badly fitted.
the only solution is to take it apart again and get back with some photos.
I would recommend assembling just the yoke first to see whats cocked up.
I've never had such problems with wear in the frame headstock, that the head races need to be glued in and frankly don't like that idea, but its your bike.
I would recommend JB WELd before Araldite Dave. 50 times stronger. ( I made that figure up). I have seen knackered headstocks that were welded and modified for a different type of race.
I agree with Douglas and Dave but would suggest check fit of bearing cup in BOTTOM race also. I have had bikes that have been in a front end shunt years ago and the bottom bearing fitting was elongated making adjustment impossible.
My frame was used for trials before I got it and I presume it had quite a hard life. When I got new races for it the top was the only race that had play on it the bottom one seemed to be free but quite snug so I presume it is the top one that wears. I presume that this is because the weight is always on it whereas the top one has no real weight on it so is free to try moving around more more than the bottom. Just a thought as to why my top one was the only one that showed wear.
thanks, does the araldite or jb weld has an filling effect also?
Looks like the top yoke is locking on the headstock, making it turn very tight.
I can't get a thick piece of paper between them.
Or maybe the wrong races instead of wear, I just ordered a net set counting on the seller to provide me with the right ones...
I think the WD ones may be slightly different to the ones available on eBay I think only two of the set share the same part number, the other two have different numbers, so it may be that which is causing the problem.
The size aof the balls is less then 5 mm (analog caliper) so should be right.
This evening I took the top yoke off and noticed the headstock is not evenly cast. The front is much thinner than the back and looks deeper.
I measured my new races and the old ones. they are smaller in height, only less then 1 mm. I have put back in the "old"races, and now the steering can be adjusted perfectly!!
Thanks for the tips and advice, without thinking about wear on the headstock, I wouldn't have thought of looking at the yoke and headstock space.
ps I have photo's but don't know how to post them...