Hi gents,

After solving my oil circulation problem, I have another one.

I push started the bike the last couple of days, because it hasn't run for over a year (just once) and before that not for 10 years + I think.
It starts very easy, runs within a couple of meters.

When I want to kick start the bike its seems to slip somehow.
Just like when you apply the clutch a little bit. Specially when I kick it hard/fast. When I do it gentle, and try to find the compression it works better. When the engine warms up it's seems to be worse.

I thought maybe the clutch had too much tension, but even after releasing the complete cable it still slips.
The gentleman who owned it before has put in new clutch plates, but has driven it very little. Can they be too new, and need some wear and tear?

Any suggestions? thanks again,

cheers Menno

email (option): menno_kraak@hotmail.com

you have a slipping clutch.
seems to me you will need to check the clutch pushrod adjustment, maybe the clutch springs are too loose or wrong or even too much/wrong oil in the case.

Or it could be the little pushrod at at the clutch arm has turned 90 degrees, in effect it alters the clutch adjustment.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Don't forget the little ball bearing on the end of the push rod on the lever end, if missing some one could of made a rod to long, apart from that check the adjustments. Also could be your clutch plates are maybe warn. Barry

email (option): Mrsbfuller@hotmail.co.uk

No time to tinker with it before the weekend.
But I did some reading in the workshop manual.

So the question is, on which end do I start, the clutch-side,
or the operating lever side...

email (option): menno_kraak@hotmail.com

Always start by checking the settings of the things that are easiest to access...usually that's the 'gearbox' end...

Then if that doesn't produce the desired result check the oil level in the clutch case and verify it's not overfilled.

..and finally take a look at the clutch....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Couldn't wait for the weekend, so I thought I start looking at the chain case.When I screwed of the inspection cap oil immediately started poring out.

I filled the gearbox with 1,75 pints mineral SAE 90. I saw it was leaking, the level dropped after a day. But I didn't know it was leaked through the gearbox into the chaincase!

After letting it run out I drove a few miles. I could already feel the improvement on the kick starter. The clutch still slips a bit, also when driving.

Do I have to clean the clutch plates, or just let it rest for a while and wait for the oil to drip of. My chaincase is closed with a sealant, and probably the only part of the bike that doesn't leak, so I would like to keep it closed.

cheers Menno

email (option): menno_kraak@hotmail.com

Pre-1948 CP boxes were grease lubricated (1 3/4 pt light grease), when using oil in these boxes some modifications have to be made or you will have a heavily leaking gearbox.
1948-51 CP boxes were lubricated by S.A.E. 50 oil and the lubrication level was lowered (capacity 1 pt) to prevent oil leaking into the primary case.

Regards,
Peter

sae 90 big mistake in these boxes.
I use SAE 50 and grease with a handful of graphite powder.

There are other opinions but they are all wrong

Gearbox oil has lots of slippy stuff in it which will not have helped.
I'd clean the clutch plates with petrol.

None of your bike should leak oil at all if its properly put together,as for keeping your chaincase oil tight, if you PM me I send you instructions on how to do it properly.

email (option): deadsheds [ at ] yahoo.com

I fit the BSA M20 sliding plate arrangement to my Matchies.

washed the clutch plates, everything working fine again...
Thanks for the advise.

email (option): menno_kraak@hotmail.com