Looking for a new chain breaker as I've just snapped the hardened pin on the cheepo chinese one I had. Looking on ebay there's plenty of those King Dick type breakers that clamp behind inner plate, this doesn't seem ideal as there's nothing supporting the other side of the chain when your driving the pin out, I like them cause they're small and will fit in the tool box but I've never used one.
Thoughts anyone?

email (option): spacemonkeym@gmail.com

The ones we get in the WD tool kits are rubbish. Get a heavy duty link extractor that will do the job

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-BIKE-CYCLE-CHAIN-RIVET-PIN-EXTRACTOR-REPAIR-SPLITTER-LINK-REMOVAL-TOOL-/360681954663?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item53fa51dd67

Or this one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-BIKE-CYCLE-CHAIN-SPLITTER-PIN-EXTRACTOR-BREAKER-LINK-REMOVER-REPAIR-TOOL-/360905137281?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item54079f5c81

I can't comment on the quality of these 2 but that's the type you want.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

What's wrong with the Pennant one from the toolkit, they work really well on most of the standard type chains? The only one they struggle on is the o ring types which we shouldn't really be putting on our WD bikes.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

The last chain I shortened was a new one for my 16H so not a heavy chain, the rivets were very hard and not going to give in to my link extractor. I had to grind the head off then use it. I've even bent the handle on my heavy duty extractor doing a heavy chain, there's not much to hold on to with the pennant type so do you put a couple of big spanners on it?

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

I usually put a spanner on it. I usually grind the head of the pins off. I have noticed that some of the newer chains have 4 peen marks forming a square and these definitely won't come off without grinding first. Mine has outlasted at least three other "quality" ones. I guess the pins are a tighter fit than they used to be as power outputs have demanded, but even my DID chainbreaker and setter have struggled with them as they only want to take the top link off and the pins are still hard to get out of the rollers. I guess it pays to use a grinder on any chain these days as the in will damage the roller as it is forced through it.. It still works easily on Standard quality chain.

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Yes, once the heads ground off anything will work, I've always drifted the pin out in the past and only bought a link extractor to see if it was easier. I thought the point of them was to be able to do it without grinding the pin first? There's not much use having an extractor in the tool kit without a grinder and a genny, but we'll need a bigger toolbox on the bike

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Yeah, was thinking more along the line of a road side repair situation.

email (option): spacemonkeym@gmail.com

Easy, buy cheap chain, they work easily on that. The quality of chain has gone up from ww2 standards due to the increased power of the bikes. Have you noticed that you never need a chain repair kit in your toolkit any more?

email (option): davmax@ntlworld.com

Hi Matty,

Sorry to disagree but it's not just about buying a cheaper chain at all. You need to understand which chains have softened ends on the rivet pins.
Several manufacturers are waking up to the fact that although the pin can be hardened for good wear resistance, it is also possible that the ends can be softened for easy breaking of the chain. Regina now do this as standard.
So if the pin end is soft, most breakers will work without too much trouble.
The hard pins can be pushed through the chain with the jaw type breakers, but as they are hard, the chains are often quite tight to get the pins out, so a clout with a hammer and pin is often required.
A hand held Regina tool will also split the hard pin type but are a little pricey at about £48 each. They are quite compact and I sell quite a lot of them.
Hope this helps
Darren

email (option): dwrudd at lineone.net

this is the sort you need, get a good secondhand british made one, the modern ones are just chinese made crap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Extractor-Chain-Link-Bicycle-Motorcycle-King-Dick-British-Motorcycle-Kit-/331170693897?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4d1b4fc309


I'm still using the one I bought as a a lad some 50 years ago and its seen plenty of service, if you find it hard to use maybe you have office hands?

time to get some in lad.

That is exactly like the Regina one.
Made in Italy, not China !

I think the original ones were Renold and I do have a 30 year old one of those too, but they do work well and last as long as you treat them well.

email (option): dwrudd@lineone.net

The trouble with that type is it only holds the side plate of the link and this can bend when trying to get the pin out. The one I've got screws down on the link and holds it tight so it's supported.

email (option): horror@blueyonder.co.uk

Horror
That's the type I have now with a shattered drive pin. They are quite bulky and am looking for something that will fit in my M21 tool box.

Darren.
The rear chain I have is a DID chain with the 4 peened edges on the pins.

email (option): spacemonkeym@gmail.com

Is this what you need in your tool roll
Ebay #111324114646

G'day Keith,
That looks ideal but the opening at the base seems too large.
was thinking something more like this 131146358159 a little on the expensive side though.

email (option): spacemonkeym@gmail.com

here, stop dithering

renolds

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-RENOLDS-Chain-Link-Extractor-/121318532327?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&hash=item1c3f25e4e7