Interestingly the Forum picture shows the M20 outfitted with a MT 1130 tail lamp. I wasn't aware that BSA used this model lamp. All 1939/40 Ariel models use them. What's the story for BSA?
Wade
Not my specialist subject but BSA also used them for the 1940 production year, in so far as it went ahead - i.e. machines built from September 1939 onwards until civilian production stopped and the WD machines went over to the MT110 which had the benefit of an integral rubber mounting and a lead-light facility. They weren't, of course, nearly as stylish and Dan Dare wouldn't have had one on his rocket ship !
The website picture is actually Henk's bike. As Rik said BSA adopted that lamp for the M20 1940 season only. However they were fitting them to C10's prior to Sept 39. Their was also a 1940 number plate with a divot for the lamp. Interestingly BSA carried on for a while with this number plate even when an MT110 was fitted.
Don't be shocked, well OK, go ahead and be shocked but I just paid 215 GBP for one of these on eBay. And it has no guts. I'm restoring a 1940 Ariel VG and wanted the correct number lamp. Most guys are content to buy the MG style wing lamp and make it work by cutting out the light opening.
Wade
Turned out to an interesting topic. Seeing as how mine has no guts, I'm wondering what the window looks like or is made of or how it is secured inside the lamp. Anyone taken the lens out of the ring? Wondering if it is glued or what? The red lenses are very rare so even when buying a repro lamp the red lens sourcing is still an issue. What did you do there Lex?
Wade
Interesting that you can make a replica of one of these rare lights using a Jag or MG lamp. Are the two a very close match, can you tell the difference when the conversion is done?
Yes Bill the bodies are the same if you get the right length. Some are slightly shorter. They are the Lucas 1130. The tail lamp is MT 1130. They come in brass, steel or monkey metal. I used a brass one when I made a repro. You have to shorten the foot to make room for the number plate window. As Wade says, it's hard to find a suitable red lens. Ron
here's a pic of the clear plastic, i also have updated mine so i can use it as a brake light as well. my red lense was £10 on ebay a few weeks ago, the guy didn't know what it was off. and just made him an offer , which he took. curt.
Hi,there was an article showing how to make these replica lamps on the
Birmingham to Berlin website ,i have looked but can't find it now.
if you ask they will prolly re-list it.
cheers Rick
Wade, as you probably know, the lenses are moulded glass, and not plastic, but even then, how do you get it in the rim? have several NOS white lenses, but you'll have to press them in the rim so to speak, I have not tried this for fear of breaking the glass! there must be a trick somehow?
Will make a picture of the glass piece later on, I'm happy to lend you one if you want to make some red ones, plastic might be easier to insert in the rim.
wade, this company has made parts for me in the past. they make parts for british bike/cars as well as the jap stuff.
just thought i would say that before someone moaned about japenese part link. curt
Curt, that is a useful connection to a company who isn't afraid to tackle rare bits.
Lex, not having examined the red lens so closely, I hadn't realized that they are glass. Having them made from plastic won't make a bit of difference to the look and they would be easier to handle.
It would be useful to have a glass in hand as a sample. Would you please PM me with your email address as the one posted won't send as shown.
For anyone in need of the proper wedge of rubber that the lamp sits on in the plate holder, then Jeff Hunter is the man: jeffalanhunter@aol.com
Jeff Hunter Engineering
35 Sandgate rd
Hall Green
Birmingham
B28 0UN
He makes a remarkably good reproduction for about 5 GBP. The 1939/1940 Ariel tail lamp mounting rubber part number is: #6130-39
It would be easiest to start with a new brass lens ring and then fit a new lens to it with a bit of cement. I should be able to press them out after making proper dies. Of course that would require dedication and that is the tough part.