Danny, I have done something like your planning, a few years ago, and the lasers are now better, because of the narrow border may I suggest the laser cuts two wide strips in a cross say 50mm wide, could be wider to the keep the strength in and stop it creasing up during transport then reducing to say 25mm at contact point to the outside shape, then during transport it is less likely to buckle, the cross shape can the be removed on site and the shape can then be fettled in place just my 2p worth , Andrew.h.

email (option): warbikes@gmail.com

Hi Andrew, thanks for that. Much appreciated. I'll certainly look into it if I have to have the section transported by courier or sent by mail.

If I collect it myself, the cross braces might not be necessary. I can clamp the frame between a couple of sheets of ply. But your point is well made. In my head, I keep thinking that 18mm is a wide border for the frame. But that's because I'm a "feet and inches" man and all that stuff.

But you're right. The frame will be liable to buckling. Thanks again for that.

I've since got some prices ranging from £35 to around £100-£150. Not sure if these include any necessary computer time/set up costs. But £35 sounds a little unrealistic.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

Laser cutting is a wonderful thing. It's pretty easy too.

The first step is to have a machine readable file. I use Autocad 2012 at home. All they have to do is post it to the processor then.

The formula for cutting is a bit of a jumble. It should be based on metal thickness (20 gage cuts a lot faster than 3/8 inch. There is set up time involved too.

Quantities are always a factor. The more you make, the bigger a spread to amortize the set up time. Say it takes 15 minutes to set up, and ten to cut. That's close enough to 1/2 hour of machine time. But.... If you do 20 pieces at a time, and use a full or half sheet you save a lot of time and material as the machine can nest the parts for you.

Most machines cut the "drops" first so the "slug" falls to the scrap pan. However, if the part is small like the "Slug" the those have to be fished out of the scrap.

I'd be happy to do an autocad file for anyone who needs it.

One caveat: The laser will leave a "Heat Affeced Zone" of hardened metal. I had some 1/4 inch pieces made that I had to tap later.......

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Hi Danny...I'd get it laser cut..Far less hassle, more accurate, no finishing operations and no welding distortion (which you will get)..
Also they can put in any holes you require...One thing which may be a factor between different companies is 'minimum order' prices..Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Thanks Rob and Ian. I've spoken to three more companies. One quoted me £35 (which sounds unrealistic). One quoted £100. And one quoted £200.

Granted that they were all quoting "blind", but it helps highlight my doubts.

It seems that my biggest problem is getting the dimensions to them in a way they can understand. It looks like I'm going to be using my plywood template and putting that onto graph paper for the outline, and then sketching in the inner edge. They'll accept that and will scan it or take referencing points or something and add a dash of salt and pepper and stick it in the machine.

Apparently they do this all the time. I'll let you know how I get on. It might help anyone else thinking of having parts made in this way.

Rob's comment about the heat affected zone is worth considering. I'm not sure if it affects my project, but I'll certainly keep it in mind.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com

Hi Danny...I have used a few laser cutter companies..Most will convert a simple dimensioned sketch into a suitable CAD programme for the laser cutter to work from, but prices for this service vary quite a bit.
Others can scan an existing component if you have one or they can scan an accurate template...Once scanned they can 'tweak' the final dimensions if required.
I have found variations in the size of components that can be dealt with by these methods...it's dependent on how much any company has invested in scanning facilities....Some don't have that ability at all...
As a general rule I have found laser cutting to be a very cost effective way to produce parts...especially in batches, when any programming/scanning costs are spread over a number of components...
As always though there seem to be remarkable price differences, so it is a case of giving them a detailed description/drawing of the component you require (from this you will get a more accurate estimate or quote) and then shopping around...Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Nearly all laser cutting & waterjet cutting companies would prefer a DXF drawing to work from, if you have the ability to create this file format then your life will be made allot easier, the best DXF format to send is AutoCAD R2000 as this is compatible with vertually all machines regardless of their age.

Kind regards,

Julian

email (option): 79aust@sky.com

Hi Danny,
If you like you can send me a drawing or even a hand sketch and I will do a DXF file for you that can be given to the laser cutter. I will also send you a PDF file so you can see what the DXF file is. Over the course of a month I wound send about 10-15 files to the laser cutter I use.

Cheers
Mark

email (option): skid1@live.com.au

Hey guys,

If any one needs something drawn in an Autocad file (and translated to DXF)I'd be happy to accomodate you.

Cheers,

Robb in USA

email (option): britool51@hotmail.com

Thanks, Mark and Robb (who emailed me off line). But I've already sent my template to the firm to be scanned and drawn, or whatever.

Appreciate the offer, though.

email (option): dannydefazio@sumpmagazine.com