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Re: James Ml

Dave I agree that the headstock stampings are very light, I have a very civi looking ML (still in maroon paint) with the wartime no, over stamped with xxxxx and a new post war no, the stands are different, plus other tell tales, that we shouldn't go into on here,A second frame I have has a wartime no only, I believe that James ML bikes like the RE flea were sent back or bought back by the factory for turning back into civi machines. Prices depends on condition but 600 euros seem a good price for a post war one Andrew.h.

email (option): warbikes@gmail.com

Re: James Ml

HI all..

The fame number is ML7674 and the motor number is 539/86-11

how do i post pictures on this forum???

Anders Nielsen
Denmark




Re: James Ml

Anders, that is just wartime, last contract, of 3000 bikes, and the last 1500 got cancelled, but this one is is in the uncancelled bit (7000-8500)

Engine number should start with AAA??

Have heard there are more Flying Fleas and James bikes in Denmark, but never found one, if I were you, I would buy it quick!!

Re. posting pictures, I'll leave that explanation to others! you can allways email them to me, then I'll post them.

Cheers,

Lex

email (option): welbike@welbike.net

Re: James Ml

anders, Buy it,if all the tin ware and wheels sound, engine parts easy from Villiers services, Metal magic for repro parts Andrew.h.

email (option): warbikes@gmail.com

Re: James Ml

Hi. all

So now, I am also the proud owner of a James ML.
it is in good condition, has been injected into oil for the last 40-50 years.
Almost complete, except the center stand and unfortunately all the miliary parts, such as, tool box, foot rests, handelbar-quick release, and front and rear lights ..

so if anyone has these parts for sale, I am the buyer for them.


can some tell me how I get the flywheel of it??

Anders Nielsen

Re: James Ml

You should use a Villiers 'Hammer-tight Spanner' to remove the flywheel, but failing that a good stout ring spanner will do. The centre nut is captive within the brass flywheel, so hold the flywheel still and give the ring spanner a couple of smart whacks with a hammer. Once the nut starts to move, keep undoing it and as you do the flange on the nut will draw the flywheel off and it will become loser and loser until it can be taken off. The nut should be turned in an anti-clockwise direction and after a couple of turns will start to feel like it is tightening up again, but keep going and it will come off eventually.

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