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Wiring

Has anyone got a picture of how the loom should be mounted on an M20 frame, just hand made the loom but as my bike never had the loom fitted when I got it, would like to have some clarification on it's position, currently I'm assuming the top frame tube is the mount under the petrol tank, but not sure the best route of the cables to get to the dynamo and battery box.
Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Re: Wiring

In the lack of any photos to date, I've just been trauling the internet and came across the following image:
 photo WiringDiagramA_zps0b279872.jpg

I made my wiring loom in accordance with the service sheet 808 as below:

 photo WiringDiagram_zps0eb7b9f6.jpg

But there is allot of similarity for the bikes wiring harness, I also now see the correct earthing point for the Regulator and the Battery, as I have this brass fixing on my Magdyno, using this earthing point and checking with my voltmeter, all areas of the frame share the connectivity nicely.

I know the picture lacks the ammeter and dip switch but it's the configuration of the main light switch with the use of terminals 7 & 6 to the Dynamo, then 1 to the horn, has anyone also seen this configuration and used it, as what I can untangle from my original loom I had a spare wire that I think could of been used from terminal 1 to the horn?

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Re: Wiring

Hi Julian
Bike is looking great – when you do the wiring it is a good idea to grease all terminations as you go. Ball bearing grease or Vaseline works ok. (you can get electrical jointing grease from electrical wholesalers) Long term - bikes are not very waterproof and grease is better in an electrical connection than damp moist air and eventually bolted frame to frame connections always corrode. I like the idea of running separate earths back to an earth point and I will use Ian's idea of a SS connector with tabs as the main earth. I think I'll make a tab with a small (5mm) hole for a bolt to terminate the wires to using smaller lugs as I agree with Ian saying large brass/copper terminal lugs tend to break with vibration. (Thanks Ian for that idea – have you ever had the SS tabs work harden and snap off with vibration – I remember DeLoriens had that problem with their SS bodies).
Regards to all
Doug W

email (option): watsond@xnet.co.nz

Re: Wiring

Hi Julian
Just seen your wiring diagram picture and the earthing on that relies on the connection from Magdyno through the engine and through handle bars and through the headlamp shell and mountings probably including the head bearings - I'd run earths from the horn switch and headlamp shell and from the magdyno to a common point to tie the whole bike to a common earth.
Rgds
Doug W

email (option): watsond@xnet.co.nz

Re: Wiring

Never had one snap Doug and one of them has done 20 years or so..I use (fairly heavy) 16 gauge material...(.060"/1.5mm approx.)....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Re: Wiring

I better order some more rubber replica wire then.
Will get the tabs made tomorrow and mount all to the saddle frame bolt as per Ian's recommendation.

Julian

email (option): 79Aust@sky.com

Re: Wiring

Julian,

Here's a wiring diagram I made that would suit your bike too...

 photo WiringModel1.jpg

email (option): ferrarakias@hotmail.com

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