I'm trying to adjust the valve lifter on my 44 Wm20. I know you can adjust the cable, but can you also adjust the angle on the lifter arm so you can get a higher lift? It doesn't appear that I can get enoough lift on the exhaust valve to decompress the cylinder. I don't know if you can refit the arm on the shaft so you get a head start on pulling the exhaust valve open. Anyone know?

thanks,

Kevin

This is indeed a delicate job. I have cheated a little myself by grinding a flat spot in the round part that is actually lifting the valve at it's resting point. This give an easier way of adjusting the thing and more lift once you activate it.

Henk

email (option): ahum@quicknet.nl

Hi Kevin...Henk is right..this can be a fiddly job to get right.
The movement of the lifter mechanism is limited and is affected by the position of the exhaust valve within the cylinder...If the exhaust valve seat has been recut this drops the valve in the cylinder and the tappet adjuster must then also be dropped to set the correct tappet clearance. This brings the underside of the tappet head closer to the 'peg' that is on the end of the valve lifter shaft (the bit that actually does the 'valve lifting').
This peg is offset to the valve lifter spindle centerline and it is this offset that limits the amount of 'lift' available...
Ignore the suggested clearance between this peg and the underside of the tappet head as detailed in the manual...it is virtually impossible to achieve this setting.
The important thing is to have a measurable clearance between these two parts (say .010"-.020") when the engine is in the position that gives full exhaust tappet clearance.
The valve lifter arm and shaft are machined with a fine spline, so the arm can be removed and replaced in a different position in relation to the shaft (and lifter peg).
Without seeing your engine it is hard to describe any further how you should set it up..However, with the engine set to give maximum tappet clearance and the peg on the lifter arm in its lowest possible position if it is still contacting the tappet head you will need to grind a flat on the peg, as Henk has, to provide a bit more clearance initially. If there is clearance when everything is set in this position then you need to adjust the position of the lifter arm on the shaft and the cable adjustment so that you get maximum lift when the handlebar lever is pulled. When checking clearance between the peg and the underside of the tappet head after setting, make sure you rotate the tappet fully. Sometimes the cam follower can be slightly bent resulting in the tappet head not running completely true. If that is the case it will affect the liftert clearance as well..It will probably take a few attempts to get it just right...Good Luck!....Ian

email (option): ian@wright52.plus.com

Much appreciated, gentlemen. Looks like that new set of files I got has become one of the better purchases during this restoration.